Out 'n about in Erbil

Your ultimate guide to the Hawlery* life

I really should have a new job - a consultant to all those abroad wishing to return to Kurdistan. Recently I have been getting random emails from here and there asking me about life in Kurdistan (which means there are people who are actually making the effort to reading this blog) and I am always typing the same replies, though I get so excited to type away: all about Kurdistan. This time I wanted to show you a different side of Erbil, a side that I haven't really touched on much in my previous entries. So, if you're planning to come visit Kurdistan, take a new job offer or come to meet friends and relatives then here is your ultimate guide.

For all

Tell anyone that you are going to Iraq for vacation or to take a new job offer then they will think you are a) out of your mind, b) wanting to die c) you're not watching the news enough or d) All of the previous. Hence, the first thing I have written to any potential visitor to Kurdistan is: 'BELIEVE ME IT IS SAFE HERE', I have said it over and over again, I have never felt safe walking anywhere in the world as safe as I feel here in Erbil.

My dear, most loved, readers* in the city that is rich in culture and tradition you can live the western life too (that is of course if you want to).

For the princesses on the ice

If you like to feel like a ballerina on the ice, then Erbil's Ice Hall is definitely for you. My advice is gather a few friends on a Thursday morning and you will have the entire place to yourself. The shoes are new, the service is great and you can spend more than two hours on the ice for under $4! Right opposite the Shanadar Park the Ice Hall is definitely something to try, even the music is great and the coffee shop for afterwards is also not that bad. The bowling is literally a one-minute walk from the Ice Hall, in Aqua Park--you can go afterwards, that is if every bone of your body is not yet broken into pieces (note from the author: don't worry about falling, it's not shameful, since it's new here I've learned even the big blokes fall and laugh it off).

For those who enjoy a chat

Costa Rica is currently one of the hottest places Erbil. For varies reasons: 1) it is considered as an 'open' environment, 2) it is far from the crowd and hassle of city life 3) the service and food is actually really nice and 4) Burger Queen and Pizza is next door. It is one of those places where you can go alone, take your lap top and get some work done without having people staring or bothering you. It is a great place to meet up with a friend over a coffee as well.

For those with a feel for speed

The Speed Center has been around for a while now—actually a very long while—though I only just recently went to try it. It wasn't really to try, but to see the place that everyone talks about. Once again, I choose the worse timing on purpose to avoid large crowds. I don't know what all the fuss is really about, and I can't describe the feeling of getting on a little car-like-structure trying to go as fast as you possibly can. I don’t see the fun in bumping to another driver either, but looking at those around me they seemed to enjoy it. Girls: before you go out on the go-carts don't bother straightening and curling your hair, just tie it back and be prepared to wear a surgeon's cap under the heavy helmet, that's what they make you do! It is about $10 for a 10-minute ride around the track (which by the way is really long). The place is clean, organized and it is a general friendly atmosphere though I prefer bumper cars any day, but as I said, this is a city that is becoming one of those places that can please different people's likes. Although it is not my type of Friday afternoon activity!

For the daring devils

Family Fun is the biggest theme park, and it is definitely one of those places that the entire family can go and there is something for everyone. I am not a dare devil, so I am the one who takes the pictures, nibbles on pop corn and fairy floss, and always end up carrying everyone's bags, phones and wallets while they are screaming and squealing on something that they call a 'fun ride'. I am thankful to admit that the quality of the rides is of high standards and are safe**. As for the picture below, I just can't believe one of those legs hanging upside down is actually my younger brother.

For the shopaholics

I can swear that soon junk mail is going to be major issue in Kurdistan. There are so many fliers and adverts of the different supermarkets (see previous entry on the story of the malls in Erbil). But the newest discovery is the Duty Free near the Safin restaurant close to Abu Shahab City (oh let me throw in an advert here; coming soon to this blog: An entire entry on Abu Shahab. Don't miss it!!) on the way to Ankawa. Shops send their customers text messages when they have sales or when new goods come in. For example, the picture below is of a text that Mango sent yesterday, it is an 'informative' text about a 35% discount. They do it around the time of month when the pay arrives (of course the pay here is in cash almost 90% of the time, easier to spend then save) and you go and realize it is the worse of their clothing and accessory items that are discounted. Once again, you're fooled!

For those with a sweet tooth

Before Abu Afif sweets was the most prestigious sweet shop in Erbil from cakes, chocolate and Baklawa too. It probably continues to be today, but the new Ashtar is also not a bad choice. The new building looks good both inside and outside.

For money savers

Erbil can be an expensive city but it can also be cheap, it really depends where you make your purchases and what you buy. Transport with Taxi is usually anywhere between $2.50 and $4, petrol is not too cheap nor is too expensive. The picture on the right is of today's petrol prices, the prices are for two different types of petrol. But even the better one not always good (… so if you happen to see me in the middle of a traffic light, not moving, you will know exactly why).

For smokers

I hate to say it, but in many ways the culture of Hookah (or nargeeli) is really becoming wide spread in coffee shops and even restaurants. For you its paradise, for me it's hell. And your freedom stops as soon as it interferes with mine. I wish some law is passed now, and it is put into our education system to prevent this problem from becoming a serious issue in the next few years. I remember four years back I rarely saw a hookah, today it is almost everywhere you go!

*Yes, readers is plural. About time.

*Hawler, is what Kurds refer to Erbil

**Safe can have different meanings

All pictures taken by me

No new year resolutions

Happy New Year!*

Every year, since 2000, I spend New Year's Eve writing an entire list of resolutions. Unlike some people who have one or two aims for the forthcoming year, my list is normally long (very long). For me, on a personal basis, 2010 had some of the greatest and … well, not-so-great moments of my life. What is surprising is that unlike every year, this year I didn't have a list of New Year resolutions. Weird huh?

Let me explain.

To finish off the year, we** visited the Nanakaly hospital twice. Our aim was to go and see the children with cancer- most of the ones we saw had Leukaemia. The four of us put on a great fundraiser (among family members and relatives mostly) where we were able to purchase a over packed trolley full of goods –board games, drawing & painting kits, chess, snakes and ladders, cards, puzzles, this is not to mention the chocolate and lollies – to take with us on our visit to the kids, (as for the picture on the right, spending is fun. Ask any girl. But it becomes a million times more meaningful and more enjoyable when it is done for others).

We knew it was nothing. But experience has taught us that for one second to make any child smile means the world. Unlike the orphans who are always so active and receptive, (see pictures) these kids (Around 12 of them) looked weaker; some couldn't even move parts of their bodies. Others could barely smile.

The doctors we met do their best to help the children and even more the parents. There is chemotherapy (but costly for the average family). From the few hours we spent in a lecture room of the conference, where all the patients and their parents met us. We tried to play a few games with the kids. Just looking at the parents made me feel guilty, I don't know for what, but I could feel the depth of their pain. That is, psychological pain. After our little get-together, activities as well as the hugs and handshakes for good bye I had to ask the doctor about the health condition of the children. The one who attracted my attention the most, the young girl with a talent for painting and drawing, is expecting an end to her life any day. As for the cute little girl who did not stop smiling, and the young boy who couldn't play with me because of his back ... the response I got was: 'they're both lucky to live for few years.'

Above: The Nanakaly hospital for blood diseases and oncology, in Erbil

That was Nanakaly.

Earlier, before Nanakaly the students (a group of about 15 boys and girls) of the University of Kurdistan- Hawler (who I am so proud of) took a trip to the orphanage in Erbil. Words cannot explain both the internal content and also the sadness at the same time as tried to make the orphans smile. The orphanage is always an experience. The beauty is that these children's eyes sparkle with hope, with optimism and at the same time you can feel there is something that is not right. Something that is missing, the greatest thing that money nor toys cannot buy – love – and that's what we do. From the visits and with time I have realized that the kids enjoy being hugged, carried around and they like to hold hands. The girls (you know who you are!) went back to their primary school years with games outside the residential areas of the orphanage while the guys put on what appeared to look like a concert with sold out tickets! It was a great day, with no doubt.

Above: Picture of the orphans gathering at our visit towards the end of 2010

That was the orphanage.

Two days before the orphanage I had visited the nursing home (opposite to the Ronaky park) with one of aunts. I probably enjoy going there the most because I feel the neglect of the feeling of loneliness among the elderlies. There are two nursing homes in Erbil, one for those who can look after themselves, and I must admit their rooms are probably neater and better looking than my own. The other nursing home (with about 50 to 60 elderly men and women) can improve in many ways, and I have heard that they're moving to a new building. But sit with anyone of them and you will realize that despite the care they are given life is difficult. I listen to the same stories over and over again. There are three women who I feel the closest to, they share a room and maybe around 75 years old. They are either always in pain, or they feel lonely, or they couldn't sleep the night before because their legs, stomach, back, neck and even hands was hurting them.

So this was the end of 2010 for me. On New Year eve I was not in party mode. I realized this year I just wished to be safe, healthy and prayed that my family will remain close to me. The others goals in life I will have to work hard at every day of my life. Every year. I realized more than ever that I possess the greatest things in life. I didn't need to write a checklist of what must be done this year, because what I want from life is embossed in my mind every second of everyday.

Above: Had the greatest time putting together the little sweet packs.

Sometimes we get carries away with our own life, that we forget others. Sometimes we want so much that we end up thinking that these are needs that we can't live without (hand bags, shoes, fancy restaurants, parties are just to name a few).

Of all the great lessons of 2010, I learned not take life for granted. The average people like the patients in the hospital, the orphans and the elderly men and women in the nursing home have taught me the greatest things in life are the simplest things. As the rest of the world (and so many people in Erbil too) reserved for party venues - as I am aware tickets were sold out early in some places - thousands spent the nights with music, dances and songs. I prefered a family gathering with some relatives. It was lovely. Welcome 2011.

*Four days late, I know.

**A.S, S.R, B.A and myself!

I haven't put pictures of the kids on purpose.

The story of the Malls in Erbil

My dear (most loyal) reader*, I have great news for all the Kurdish men out there! Are you ready?

Foreign businessmen were quick to realize the weakness of women in this country and for all your delight, the creation of malls has been (and continues to be) high on the agenda.

Here is the story in Erbil. We (the women, of course!) had Naza Mall and we thought we were really lucky. Then came Rhein Mall, and for us girls that was equivalent to paradise. Not too long later it was followed by Hawler Mall and, let's be honest, our expectations with the quality of the goods were not met. Soon came Maxi Mall, and that compensated for the previous disappointment.

Above: Majidi Mall, known for the Big Clock and its large parking area (By the way, Mango is here too!)

Then there was the big bomb, Majidi Mall--that's when we thought we had it all. But little did we know there were other surprises up the sleeves of businessmen. Sofy Mall was next--the daughter of Majidi--but still we liked the former just a little bit more. Businessmen realized that we became harder to please, then came Family Mall. With no sarcasm, it really did exceed all expectations and set the bar sky high.

Above: Picture of the new Family Mall, right next to Erbil's largest theme park- Family Fun!

Above: This is a picture taken from high up one of the new builings, cross the road is Sofy Mall (See the red sign?) Dear me, all the places I go just for the sake of this blog :)

The story continues--Ankawa Mall, Tatlisias Mall and Banu Mall are all currently in the making—and I won't be surprised if on this early Friday morning there are people sitting on round tables planning for the next big Mall in Erbil.

Above: If you don't believe me, here it is Ankawa Mall - in the making!

Above: Banu Mall, under construction today, but be sure to drop by in your next visit to Erbil...it wil be open.

You see, every new mall is one step above the previous. If you followed the above story closely you will realize we have progressed far up the ladder in the shopping world. Today in Kurdistan's capital shopping is not about just buying the necessities to live life, today it is about fashion, quality, enjoyment oh and how can I forget – designer brands!

Don't be surprised if you hear these conversations:

Friend A: "Haven't seen you in a while, I miss you"

Friend B: "Well let's catch up!"

Friend A: "Why not, we'll meet up for coffee,"

Friend B: "Great! Where?"

And here it is, the big 'where?' I remember four years back there really was nowhere, (other than the few places that were overcrowded and you just didn't feel comfortable to go without a father, brother or a male cousin). Today, it's a different world.

When I see these things taking place, it makes me happy. I know it is not a life that all classes of our society can indulge in, but it’s fulfilling to know that we have the facilities and services that other people in other corners of the world are enjoying.

Having said all this I still think we shouldn't miss out on having sweet Kurdish tea at the Chaykhana (tea house) and don't be too carried away with all the malls, because believe me there is no better shopping (cultural) experience than Erbil's very own Qaysary Bazaar.

The negative side of this is that almost everything is made in Turkey, Syria, China, and every other place in the world, but nothing, absolutely NOTHING, is made in Kurdistan! This frustrates me!

* AKA: My shopping partner, Mum!

My "Memoirs" column in the Kurdish Globe this week looks into this issue of the new malls more in details, see: kurdishglobe.net
All pictures were taken by me! EXCLUSIVELY and SPECIALLY for this blog. Loyal blogger to loyal readers!

My history through their pictures

There she was, a simple French woman showing me my history, picture after picture; page after page, she was teaching me things that our young girls and boys should be learning at school. She was showing me what it really means to be a Kurd, rather weird considering she was French, and I was a Kurd.

She opened the first pages, there was some writing in French that I couldn't understand, and she posed the question, what looked like the first line to the thick, colourful book. "What does it mean to be a Kurd?" She asked pointing at the writing bolded at the top of the page. This is a question that is now embossed in my mind. As I wrote well into the night after my meeting with them, I kept asking myself the same question. "What does it mean to be a Kurd?"

Could being a Kurd mean we speak Kurdish, then again there are some Kurds in Turkey who have lost the Kurdish language but remain to be Kurds, maybe their sentiments of the Kurdish identity is deeper than yours and mine. Could it be about the religion or a religious sect? Again no. I know Yezidis who have strong Kurdish sentiments, I also know Shiite Muslims who feel just as much Kurdish as a Sunni Kurd. I have Christian friends who hold strong Kurdish values.

A simple question of our identity took my imagination past the height of our mountains and beyond the limitless sky.

Let's get to the point, my dear reader (yes- I am referring to YOU -Mum!!!! ) throughout my life (young life I should say) I have always considered myself as lucky to have had the honour to come across great people, amazing personalities and inspiring individuals. They each have taught me a lesson in life, and I have taken from the experience of every person I have met – people who change the world in the smallest deeds that they do – these are the people who I look up to.

This time I met a wonderful French couple (Mr. and Mrs. Kutschera)*. My knowledge of Kurdology (I don't know if the word actually exists, but I am going to be using it from now on!) comes from the books and articles I have read and the childhood stories I've listened to on my father's lap. This type of learning experience was different.

Mrs. Kutschera patiently took me through every single page of section 1 of the book they have put together, with her husband commentating on certain historic information when necessary.

Sometimes when they spoke my arms began to shiver and my eyes filled with tears – I still don't know if they were tears of happiness or sadness. But what I do know is that I was inspired more than ever before by my own people.

Above: Mrs. Kutschera shows a picture of a Peshmerga she has taken back in the 1970s.

You know what? I saw pictures of Kurds in the mountains learning and studying outside. The black board was probably no bigger than some of our television screen at home; it was held high by two large tree branches cut off. I saw pictures of the Peshmerga and their families – living in a cave. I saw a picture of a biologist, sitting on a mountain top with a small microscope. There was a picture of students doing an exam under a tree outside, sitting on the ground.

Everyone in the pictures look equal. No one is better than the other. From their faces I could tell how transparent their hearts are. Mr. Kutschera tells me that he went to the houses of villagers where he was greeted warmly, even at the absence of the husband. I felt so honoured as they described the way Kurds treated foreigners, even in the most difficult days in their history.

Mrs. Kutschera restores some of the old pictures people have to add to the online photo library of Kurdish history.* You can see some of the pictures that are now online at www.kurdistan-photos.org although the ones in the book are exclusive and indeed, each picture tells a thousand words. The book (which is in three sections, beginning from the first photograph taken by the Kutscheras in 1971 to 2011) will be published in four different languages.

I discussed with Mrs. Kutschera of her willingness to visit schools (young children in particular) once her book is out so that she can explain to them the history of the Kurds through pictures she had taken over a four decade period (to speak of her first hand experience; her encounters while living with the Peshmerga, sitting and talking with Kurdish leaders). I don't see why we can't have the elderly ex-Peshmergas go to schools and speak to students about their past experiences (now that's an idea!).

We have a rich history and there are so many stories that need to be told before it's too late. The other day, I wished I had hundreds of primary school students with me, listening to the stories given by the Kutschera couple!

Above: Mrs. Kutschera shows me the online photo library of Kurdish personalities and history, by January she promised to have thousands of pictures loaded on. Take a look- kurdistan-photos.org

As the Kutschera couple spoke, I somehow wished to have lived through those moments. I sensed how it felt to be there. I looked at the Peshmerga smiling – while living in the worse possible conditions – I saw a picture of a shop, but the shelves were empty, the man had almost nothing to sell. Mr. Kutschera points at a picture, he tells me 'this is the last picture of peace in Kurdistan' I look at the caption, only to realize it was written "1973". I immediately recall an interview I did not too long ago with Bayan Abdul- Rahman, she spoke of prosperity and development in Kurdistan. One of the key points she emphasized repeatedly is having solid, uninterrupted peace. She said with "continuous peace" we can prosper not just with infrastructural development but also economically, socially and politically.

I really do hope that this solid peace that is now apparent continuous in our part of the world, so that we can build more. There is a lot we need to do. There are villages that need services, there are people out there with spectacular talents that need to be recognized so that they can develop. There are thousands of young people who would love an opportunity to continue their studies, there are hospitals that need to be renovated, there are issues that need to be addressed through awareness and there are is a future for this nation waiting. I believe it is a sensitive time for us, but I can't be more optimistic about the future of this Kurdish country (yes, I use the word country, why shouldn't I?)

As for the Kutscheras, 40 years ago they took pictures of the Kurds in the mountains with film-strip cameras, writing the information on paper with pens. Now they bring their laptop to a luxuries hotel lobby area, connected to the wireless internet in Erbil. They are publishing their book in the region's own capital city and taking pictures of shopping malls with digital cameras.

The times have changed, and so have we. But I have one wish. The way Mr. and Mrs. Kutschera described the Kurdish people was beyond what I can write in words. Their eyes said it all. I hope we remain to be such noble, loving and warm hearted people. We have been hurt enough to know that it is not okay to hurt others!

*Kurdology – Coming from the word 'ology' meaning: A combining form, "the science or study of" and 'Kurd' – a member of the largest stateless nation in the world, but will someday have a country of their own!

*Mr. and Mrs. Kutschera have the same first name (Chris) so to avoid confusion I refer to Mrs. Chris Kutschera as Mrs. K and to Mr. Chris Kutschera as Mr. K.

*If you happen to have pictures that date back for some years, please do let me know so I can forward your details to Mrs. Kutschera.

-Pictures in this entry were taken by me! Sazan M.