Little moments in Kurdistan that make life BIG

Dearest Most Loyal Blog Reader (of course in the whole wide world)

soon-to-be father and son

People ask me why I love this place so much. Sometimes I can answer, other times I just can't. Some little incidents take place in my daily life here that make my life special. It makes me put my head on the pillow at night with a smile. They are the same reasons why I wake up every morning and begin my day.

I swear I will get to the point.

So, a few days ago on social media networks I wrote about a small incident I had encountered during my day. I wrote exactly this:


 "Before I got to bed tonight I want to remind you of The Baby, he is 1 year and 2 months, needs to be adopted as soon as possible. If you, or anyone you know is interested please contact me...Let us help to find this baby a warm home and a loving family who can actually take care of him and give him unconditional love. Thank you!"

[Less than 24 hours later]  Upset, nervous, unsure

I get a phone call from the greatest S.A. who had read my post, and he tells me Kak L might be interested. I also happen to know Kak L.** Lots of calls, and little bits and pieces take place but...

[Less than 48 hours later]  - A glimpse of hope, getting a tiny bit excited

I find myself in a car, sitting in the back seat with a  lovely (No. In fact an AMAZING) Kak L driving and his fabulous wife sitting next to him. Yup! We are on our way to see the baby.

[less than 50 hours later] - The suspense killed me in the car as I was BBMing a dear one 

We saw the little boy in a lady's hand outside as we parked the car. We walked in as soon as we were inside, the baby was placed on the ground he immediately ran towards what just might be his new daya*. Within minutes he was on the couple's laps. It felt to me like they were his parents for the past year.

The room was filled with love. I watched as the baby boy crawled from one side of the room to the next side towards them. Just like any baby boy, our Boy is in love with cars and so he pushed around a toy car towards the couple who were sitting next to me.

I let our deep breaths as I watched this couple smile from the deepest points in their hearts.

It didn't need discussion or re-thinking. Straight away they decided to take the baby home and meet the grandmother and his aunt-to-be, the lady from the orphanage joined us.

[Less than 52 hours hours later]

At this point I would look out the window of the car trying to hold back tears while counting how many houses we drive past, just to give my mind another focus. I failed miserably. Instead the corner of my eye would creep away and watch Kak L take off the tasbih (rosary) from the mirror on the front screen to give it to his new son-to-be.

[Less than 53 hours later] Is this a dream?

I see the new house where baby will be spending the next years of his childhood and hopefully when he is an adult as well. I see a beautiful garden, lots of green grass. I pause for a second, I can imagine the baby boy playing here, there is even a pavement "aaah this is where he can drive a mini car in a few years time when is a little older.." I think to myself.

I meet the aunty, it doesn't take minutes before she goes to her room and comes back with a few cute teddy bears to place in the baby's lap (you know those two teddy bears that almost every older girl has in her room, and NO ONE can touch them?). As the ladies began talking I secretly watched Kak L as he held the baby in his lap and gave him a tour of the house. I watched secretly as he took him to a little bird cage and spoke to the baby. Sadly, I couldn't hear what he was saying, but it seemed like a father-to-son talk. He then took the to the right... they didn't come out for a good few minutes. Me being so curious, stood up to see what is happening, I walked behind the door and peaked from behind it. Kak L was feeding the baby- STILL IN HIS ARMS.

At this point I walked back to my seat, put my head down and texted a few dear ones who knew where I was, three texts to three people:

"Emotional"

"Alhamdulilah"

"They r in love with the baby. Nayan awet ba je beln."

[Nearly 72 hours later]  After smiling all day my cheek bone hurts

Basically just before I sat down to write this entry. I got my phone. Went up to my room and--I closed my eyes and prayed to Allah--then went to the dialed numbers to call Kak L and his wife. We spoke a lot, the entire time I could hear a baby in the background laughing and playing.

In a few days time Kak L and his wife will do a lot of paper work, and interviews. Late next week the baby who I wrote about with a broken heart will be washed away with love and the best care in the world in an amazing house with wonderful parents.

Note to Loyal Blog Follower:

As soon as I came home today I walked in with my shoes on, my daya screamed as usual. "How many times do I tell you don't walk in with your shoes on?"

"Mum you don't know what happened today!"

"Go take off your shoes then talk!"

"Mum you know that baby I was talking about?"

Everyone forgets Saza has her shoes on, and we talk and talk and talk and I think I have just persuaded the two greatest people in my life to bring home a little sister soon... they didn't say yes, but they didn't say no either. In fact, baaba^ said he had in mind to bring home this one.


*The most precious word in the Kurdish vocabulary. Mother. 
^The other most precious word in Kurdish vocabulary. Father. 
** On my birthday dinner last year with some colleagues, I met Kak L's wife for the first time. I asked her if she has kids (not LISTEN I never, ever, ever ask such a question. But I forgot her name, and wanted to see what her child's name is so I can say Mother of X -- this a polite Kurdish way referring to a woman older than you -- she said I don't have kids. The entire evening I was ashamed of my question, and the few times I met Kak L after that I felt ashamed for the question I had asked)

Pssssst! Can you keep a secret?

Dearest most Loyal Blog Follower,

I have been away for a while, I know. But look, I have come back to you with something extraordinary I am sure you will love me for it.

Since February this year I have been on a mission.  The story began when I had a training, and I loved the food served for lunch I kept asking, "Where is this from? Where is this from?" and all I got was: "It's from Tasty!"

But... where is Tasty?

Since then, every time I saw food from Tasty I knew it right away before I even had a chance to taste it. It was always proper home made food. Just perfect, as if it had just come off from your mum's stove and out of her pots. Tasty was indeed Tasty!

Tasty Delicious food in Erbil - Secret places revealed

Almost four months later and I have found every man's food heaven, and I am sharing it all with you my dearest Loyal Blog Follower. 

I wish I can give you the street name, post code, house number and you could go and find it right away. however since we live in Kurdistan, and more in particular Erbil I will take you through the whole process. (You know how it goes: Next to X, then turn third street right, then after the blue building second left etc." Sounds familiar right?!) 

When I fell in love with Tasty

This is well over my fourth attempt to find this secret hiding place to the most amazing home-made food. The food has an Iranian touch to it, other than the sweets everything tastes zoooooor delicious (I bet you anything that the chef is from Iran in fact there is no need for a bet, my research already confirmed this prediction to be CORRECT).

Okay, I will get to the point now. So, after I find out it's in Bakhtiary and behind a school it makes my search a lot easier. I just have to find every school in the Bakhtiary area (which by they way there aren't many) and then try to drive behind them. You can imagine what my poor mother was thinking sitting next to me, though she didn't say anything thinking  to herself: "Finally my skinny daughter is in search of food."*

If you are familiar with the Bakhtiary quarter in Erbil this is going to be easy, if you're not don't worry I have come to the rescue with the the exact directions. I promise you, you will NOT get lost. You can prosecute my Blog if you do.^ 

1. Go on the "dooooooo side-dakay Baxtyari" (the main two sided road in Bakhtiary- yes, that's how we give directions here!) This is the long road where the emergency hospital is, and if you go down further there is another private hospital, I think it's called Farewell! Which by the way is a very interesting choice for a hospital name.

2. From that two sided road, as you go towards the Zakaria Apartments, if the artist Zakaria doesn't ring a bell to you, then I mean Naz City, on your right there is a corner fruit shop (this is the part where I expect you to think 'oooooo thaaaaaat shop'). The famous Bakhtiary fruit and groceries shop that your mum probably asks you to go to every time she needs a kilo of whatever she has runout of at home.

3. Go into that road, where all the shops are drive--or walk-- up straight. No right, no left. Just straight. 

4. Then you will see on your left a school. Here turn left, then the first right after the school finishes turn right. So you are right behind it. On the front side of the school is basically a wall with illustrations on it. It's hard to miss.

Behind the school in Bakhtiary**

5. You don't even have to look for it... it is right there "TASTY." 

This is when you probably insult me with your words under your breath. "All this way, and this is what I find?" Simply because it is a small kitchen like place with a few chairs. 

But then......

And here is Tasty

6. You find it closed! Can you imagine? After four months search, I finally find it, and it's closed. But don't worry your beloved Blogger won't let you suffer. You can order by a phone call, or here are the working hours I found on display:

Working hours for Tasty Kitchen in Bakhtiary - Erbil

Delivery Service just a call away...

Until my next HUGE discovery khwa hafiz!

P.S. I am not responsible for any meals that you find tasteless at Tasty! ;)

*For some reason Kurdish mothers (daya) are always concerned if their daughters are half a kilogram underweight. 

** Sorry, I can't remember the school name. I couldn't take a picture of the front side of it either, ask my daya why :) 
^ But I will get you a free Tasty meal, just so you don't go through with the legal charges :P

The Perfect Day in Erbil

Hellloooo Loyal Reader,

Well, public holiday today and it did not need much effort to decide how to spend my day. I managed to have the perfect day. Of course, with the perfect people.

The morning started with no breakfast.
DK texted: "Saza... I miss Mam Khalil." 
Me: "Kche Saza baqurbant bet. Mam Khalil it is."

[40 minutes later]

We found parking. That was great. Next, we walked in the maze of the Qaysari Bazaar to a restaurant that offer kebabs! Only kebabs. Listen, this is not your fancy 5 Star restaurant, and if you're one of those people who complains "eeew that's dirty, eeeew he is not wearing gloves, eeew this and eeew that!" Then I do not recommend this place, so please save yourself the trouble and save me the blame.

Everyone else (the coooool readers of this blog) OH MY GOD! If you have not been yet, then what are you waiting for????!

Kabab Khanay Yaseen - Family section

too good!

It was my good friend NQ who first introduced me to Kabab Khanay Yaseen (if you're a Loyal Reader you will know exactly when), since that day it is a must every time I visit the qalat. Look, I am not a meat eater, in fact if meat was not an ingredient in Dolma (Yaprax) then I would have definitely been a vegetarian by now, but here it is not just the food, but the experience.

Waiting for It to arrive

The restaurant, is basically overcrowded. Well, too crowded, ummm... maybe a little overcrowded? Eeer... crowded to the limit where you actually have to share a table with people you don't know. Yup! We sat on a table with a man and two women we have never met in our entire lives, but this is how it is at Yaseen's Kebab! While everyone else made new friends and socialized, we (the three of us) were dead quiet eating. The service is not perfect and no one really cares how you eat. There is no menu. It is simple: You order kebab, but just say how much you want. While some of my friends order "se nafar" (three people), poor me who is trying to add weight orders "niwww nafar" (half a person).

"niw nafar kabab"

You wait a bit (depending on how crowded it is, sometimes up to 10 minutes. But trust me 10 minutes is like 10 hours when all you're doing is listening to your churning tummy and watching people eat), and it arrives. So, basically, there is no etiquette. If you want my advice this is how you need to eat it: Put some (a LOT of)  smaq, then get the bread, add a bit of kebab, squeeze some lemon, add a bit of onion, tomato, pickles, and then.... yes, take that juicy bite and wait till the oil drips from the bottom of your mini sandwich!

The perfect bite!

Once you've eaten. Wash your hands at the sink, because it is going to be greasy, and walk your way (about 2 minutes) to Mam Khalil's tea shop-- If you don't know Mam Khalil then you don't know me!!!!

The perfect Kurdish tea

Here, sit back, relax, take out your notebook and enjoy the best chaaaaa you have ever had. In your life. In your entire life. The best. Yup. The perfect temperature. The perfect amount of sugar. Not too dark. Not too light. Did I mention it was perfect?!

aaaah that was nice...

And this, my dearest reader was my day off!

The great Kurdish Girl- Meet Jwan!!

Dearest, most loyal blog follower in the entire world,

Helllooooo!!

Jwan Jabar (Jwan Barzanji) OR JJ

I always go on about how many great people there are, and sometimes I try to introduce you to some of them. Today I spent most of my day with someone who is not only an inspiration, a super girl, a role model but one of the greatest Kurdish girls I know.

Jwan (JJ or Jooja) is the 24-year-old Kurdish girl who texts a Mulla at the mosque half an hour before his Friday talk to remind him that he needs to talk on a particular issue. And he actually listens to her. 

She is the type who can be seen in women's prisons, and shelters as well as villages and courts. When you hear anything to do with violence again women, oppression, poverty or any woman suffering, then you know it is Jwan who you call.  I mean who else would you contact?

She was brought up in a family of 9 children, and just happens to be the eldest. Gosh does she have a lot  of stories to tell. Not just any story, but stories that make you laugh and cry at the same time. The type of stories that you want to hear. Always. All the time. 

Anyhowwwww... Let me get to the point. With all that life has to bring to a Kurdish girl, who has not been brought up abroad and was born, and educated in an average family going through inflation, oppression and civil war, today Jwan, in my opinion, is a 24-year-old super woman! Who changes not one life, but many lives on a daily bases. 

Her job? She works at a women's empowerment NGO in Erbil. Don't ask what she does. Please. Because there is nothing this girl can't do or won't do. 

What I love about her the most is that she has a purpose in life. She has a love for life. She knows what she wants, she has her priorities set high and more importantly, Jwan lives her life to give meaning and hope to the lives of other people.  

Above all this, she is always happy, optimistic, energetic, lovable and sweeter than sugar! And a great cook. 

You would think such a girl with so much talent, energy and great skills would dream of being someone great and well-known. But no. Her simple dream is to own a kebab khana and just continue what she does. But I can tell you one thing, this girl is like a magic wand to any woman in pain in this society, and I am just glad that my path and her path have crossed and I can proudly call her my friend! 

You can contact Jwan on her Facebook, here. I am trying to get her to start a blog soon, and be sure Jwan will have a book published before the end of this year about her experiences working with vulnerable women. 

Until next time khwa hafeez!

HELP! I am moving to Erbil

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Hellooooo Loyal Follower,

I often receive emails of people abroad asking questions about their permanent returns to Kurdistan. Now, let me just say one thing, from all the exclamation and question marks in their email I can tell they're stressed, and they probably haven't slept all night -- all week. Here I am answering a few questions of three different people who have emailed in the last few weeks:

Where is the best place to rent a house?  

This seems to be everyone's major concern. Two of three emails asked the exact same question. Look, it all depends on your budget. Unlike many others places (UK in particular) generally the houses here are quiet large (ranging from 100-450 square meters) in the newer suburbs they usually have 3 story houses. So, to ease this down for you I will divide this into two sections-- $$ (a lot of money) and $ (not-so-much money), so, here we go:

English Village in Hawler (Erbil)

The $$
These areas are usually a little more (correction, a bit too...) expensive. They include areas near the airport like Dream City, Royal/ Empire, Naz City, English Village, Italian Village, Vital houses as well as the American village (which is about 20 minutes drive out of Erbil, but that is more like $$$. I won't explain the $$$ options because if you can afford it then you will be the type who will have someone doing everything for you and won't be reading this humble blog) Anyway... 

Empire, Royal Apartments, Hawler

Prices in these areas can range anywhere from $1, 700 to a good $3, 500 + a month. These houses are usually closed off with a main gate for security, and you pretty much have 24-house electricity with 3 or 4 minute blackouts to change generators or maybe refuel. I know the apartments in Royal and maybe Naz City as well have furnished options. (I will put in the phone numbers for you later if you are interested!) 

American Village, Erbil

The $
If you thought this list is going to give you prices that is $200 or $400 then I am sorry to disappoint you. The price for the suburbs I am going to list range from $600 to $1, 000 a month -  RENT. These include Bakhtiary (one of my favorite areas) and Waziran (just opposite Bakhtiary) there  are also places like Shorsh, 94, Dolarawa, Zanko etc.

Houses in Erbil's new suburbs

I know in Ankawa, and sometimes Bakhtiary, people rent the second story of their house. It has its own kitchen, bathroom, maybe two bed rooms or one bedroom and a living room as well. These houses normally have a separate gate and stairs from the outside going to the second floor, so you don't mix with the family living downstairs, at all. Normally the cost can vary between $300 to $450 (I know a group of friends who pay around $400 in Ankawa- 2 minute drive from the airpot). 

What are some good/special schools for my children?
Wait. Let me google the name first, I can never get the spelling right, OK, here it is, the International School of Choueifat (SABIS) is probably the most elite, expensive, good quality (education wise) school in Erbil. Basically, it is for the sons of daughters of leaders, top businessmen and those who can afford it. It costs around $4, 000 a year in addition to food, books, transportation etc. The curriculum is all in English and I must admit myself it looks very prestigious and elegant. Although expect your child to be picked up by the school bus as early as 7 am and return as late as 5 pm and HAVE HOMEWORK on top of all this! I know, poor kid. That's the expensive option. 

Choueifat, School in Erbil

Although there are English medium schools. There is Ishiq (for boys) and Nilofer (for girls) that are Turkish private schools. The teaching is all in Englsih, although as far as I am aware there is a Turkish and a Kurdish class. The expense for these schools are much cheaper than Choueifat (I copy-pasted the spelling). 

There is also a school called Fakhir Merga Soor, which is located closer to the airport and based inside the city, there is the French School (teaches entirely in French and has one English and a Kurdish lesson) there is also a high school for gifted children with most, if not all, the curriculum being taught in English. Although good (no, not 'good' but high) grades and an entry exams are prerequisites here! 

Choueifat, Gifted School and Fakhir Mergasoor are mixed, most other schools in the city are unisex. Other schools are all public, the quality in general is poor and all the classes are Kurdish (there are two Arabic schools).

I can't live without internet, how can I sort that out? 

Nawand Telecom office in Erbil

Neither can I. You can get Reber Quick (slow, since it is not that quick). You buy the little device and then get a monthly card ($30 usually) and you have internet access. Otherwise there are companies like Nawand telecom, which I use at the moment, it is a little more costly (about $75) but the internet is also better, they also offer a wireless service (and the staff are SUPER SUPER SUPER friendly). If you have a landline, then I encourage you to use the landline options because the connection is SO MUCH FASTER, fast to the extent that you don't actually wait for a YouTube video to load. The good news (BAD news) is most of the new areas in Erbil don't have landlines.

NAWAND TELECOM, internet in Erbil: 07503065013 or 0662575310 

Which is the best telecommunication company for my sim-card? 
Well well well... who should I do an advert for? The main companies are ASIA CELL, KOREK and ZAIN at the moment. In Erbil most people have a KOREK number, while most in Slemani have ASIA CELL. Both have their own offers, so it all depends on your calls. Korek provides a BlackBerry service (I think Asia might as well) and they both do internet service for your phone. For Korek you can pay as little as 10, 000 ID for an entire month of [slow] internet connection.

Korek re-charge card

Once you get your sim-card (either at the bazaar or the major malls) then you just purchase re-charge cards. These can be found almost in any supermarket, shop and the major shopping malls. There are difference options, you can get 5, 000 ID; 10, 000 ID; 15, 000 - you get the point. You know you are running out of credit when a sweet lady kindly tells you that you only have 30 seconds left to speak. That's when you say "Bye! I am out of credit." 

KOREK: http://www.korektel.com/
ASIA CELL: http://www.asiacell.com/
ZAIN: http://www.zain.com/

Can I still do sport in Erbil?
Ummm. DAAAAH!! Sorry, but it does frustrate me sometimes when the media doesn't portray Kurdistan as it is. Yes there are gyms and there are women, men and young people who go. So there are various options... where do we start from? hmmm..

J&K in Erbil, women's sport/ fitness 

J & K - This was a huge project at the beginning but now it is kind of just a salon, pool and gym (still pretty good) the pool is BIG, the gym is nice, a few TVs, music, a good variety of equipment and they have an aerobics room. It is basically $100 a month. This is located near the entrance of Ankawa easy to see. Can't miss it. 

LBC (Lebanese Beauty Center)- This is one of the top salons in Erbil, the second floor is a gym. I must admit it is very neat and tidy. Small in size, but I went there for three weeks (lost too much weight and I quit. Note: The purpose of my visit was to gain a few kilos and make some muscles! Yeah I know what you're thinking). This is located on Shorsh street (close to Royal Mall).

Lebanese Beauty Center in Erbil - salon and gym

There are alternative options such as Blue Center (bit far though) Harveen (near Ankawa) and few others too. 

I have a great job offer, but is there going to be a chance for my wife to find something to do?
Congratulations on your job! Let me guess, an oil company? ;) If she has a degree there are various vacancies around, I know the university of Kurdistan Hewler has job vacancies, so do various local NGOs, she can also do volunteering here and there. Email me and I will find her something to do. 
Meanwhile, keep an eye on Jobs In Kurdistan Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/job.kurd?fref=ts  a good friend of mine runs it, might be of help! 

Transport
Easy. Three options: Hello Taxi, Pink Taxi, Street Taxi.

Pink Taxi in Erbil

Hello Taxi charges from airport to places in Erbil around $50 (which his a rip off) Pink Taxi (only for women, the great thing about this is the driver is a lady as well) costs 3 000 IQ (around $2.50) then I think about $1 for each km. Normal taxis, painted yellow and easy to see everywhere, can be stopped on the sheet (in fact you don't need to stop them, they will stop) usually charge between $2.50 to $5. Just to make sure before you get on, tell them where you want to go and ask how much he will take  you for. Sometimes you might need to bargain a bit, but usually they don't overcharge foreigners. 

A normal Taxi Kurdistan - no need for booking

PINK TAXI: 07506337700 (I actually found this number online and I JUST called them--aah what I do for my Loyal Followers, I wanted to make sure I am giving you the right number-- the lady on the phone was so sweet. So she confirmed this is the number you phone and you need to do reservations beforehand. 

Sadly, public transportation is not always recommended or reliable, though we are all waiting for the metro to start toootttttiiiiiiing near the citadel (I can't wait!). 

Train in Erbil (future) "Next stop Qalat!"

Where are the best places to shop?
Oh My God. Where oh where do I start? In two years time every road in this city is going to have a shopping mall. But for now here are the main ones.

Majidi Mall 
This is located after the Rizgari Hospital. Here, there is the City Center, where you can do you major shopping including fruits, veggies, and everything else you may need. It is the place where you can actually find the ingredients to a recipe you find online!  Then there is Vakko, fancy watch and glasses shops as well as clothing, shoes, Levis, and good bunch of other stores. Price rates here are at the higher range. There is also a perfume shop and two sports shops. How can I forget the diamond/ jewelry shop.

Majidi Mall, Erbil

Family Mall
Located on the 100 meter road, Family Mall is when you go on a Thursday or a Friday afternoon and you CAN NOT FIND A PLACE TO PARK  basically there is a wide range of shops. Everything from your iPhone, to your DKNY handbag can be purchased here. This is also linked to Family Fun, where there many rides and children's entertainment. So, a MAJOR attraction for nearly everyone. If you're going to spend a day of your weekend there, be ready to bump into many of your friends. Family Mall also includes Carrefour, where you can get your food shopping done (although I prefer City Center in Majidi... if I ever do food shopping).

Family Mall, Erbil

Royal Mall

Royal Mall

Royal Mall, Erbil

Royal Mall, Erbil

Tablo Mall, Erbil

Rhein Mall is mostly clothing, shoes, games for kids and lots and lots of bridal shops. It is located in Iskan. Prices here are more expensive than the bazaar but much cheaper than Majidi and Family Mall.

Rhein Mall, Erbil

Citadel, believe me this is THE BEST option! You can get almost everything here, from henna for your hair, rice for dinner to a Louis Vuitton handbag (fake of course!). There are many traditional things here that you would not find in the supermarkets and malls. Worth a visit. 

Shopping in the heart of Erbil

Then there is Langa bazar, or the second hand shops, near Rizgari Hospital, in fact you can also go there from the 60 meter road. 

Langa Bazaar in Erbil (Mostly secondhand) 

Are there places where I can just hang around?

Well well well... if you asked six or seven years ago I would have had a hard time telling you where to go, but these days there is actually a lot of choices. It all depends on what you prefer: With hookah? Without hookah? Outdoors? Indoors? Girls? Guys? etc... but here are a few options suitable for most people.

Robert's Cafe in Family Mall

Costa, as we like to call it, is the place where many people go to in the evenings, specially during summer where the outdoor seating area provides a nice atmosphere. There is also wireless internet connection here.

Costa Rica on Gulan street

MADO in Family Mall, Erbil

Second Cup, Erbil, Royal Mall

There is also Barrister in Dream City, this is a place where you can go and find absolutely no one there (good internet connection too). There is also a Cafe in Royal Mall at the center on the ground floor, I love everything they provide as well as the one in Tablo Mall (also on the ground floor). You might like to try them. 

I will close off this entry here, but if you look at previous entries you will see places to visit, where to go and things to try! So look around the blog and please feel at home (baxer hati, sar chaw!) and if you have any questions drop me an email: s.mandalawi@hotmail.com 

Pictures taken from everywhere and everyone. Sorry I haven't mentioned the source. Too many to name, but only few are my own, others were stolen from the internet, for a very innocent purpose! :) By the way I don't think I need to mention which pictures were taken by me. They speak for themselves. ;) 

Reaching out to out of reach women

Dear Loyal Blog Follower...

First patient, a baby needing heart surgery

If only you knew my thoughts and feelings today. If only you knew what I saw, and what I heard. If only...  I went with the START NGO Mobile Medical Team,  aiming to take medical services for women who are out of reach. The NGO had its own equipment and staff, though today the mobile medical bus (I think that is what it's called) was borrowed from the MoH - but it was not as functional as we thought it would be. 

The bus was given to the KRG's MoH by the Koreans

As the team began setting up, I spoke to the first woman there. She was in her thirties with a baby held in her arms. I say hello and the baby holds my fingers tight. (And me being all spiritual, I interpret this as the baby's way of telling me 'I need you Saz!') I am told by the mother that she took the new born to Erbil a few days back -- of course she paid so much money for transport, doctor and medication -- then realized the four month old needs a heart surgery after her second birthday. That's how my day began.

Women in the village waiting to see the Dr.

In less than an hour of our arrival I already had over 40 women's names in my notebook, I try to give them numbers so they know the sequence to see the doctor, only to realize most of them have not gone through any schooling that they can't recognize numbers. I feel guilty. I hope I have not caused any embarrassment. 

Sitting with the women in the village

The room inside the mosque (where we are based) is full and I sit on the floor outside with a group of women. They are friendly, very friendly and we talk as if we have known each other all our lives. I love these moments. I think to myself: "This is me. this is what I love doing."We talk of many things as we wait for other women to go in one by one to see the doctor. In this seating on the floor, I make many friends, and I also learn a lot about my own society, a place about 45 minutes outside my capital.

My first new friend, Pura Z.

I learn these women never go to a doctor for a checkup, only when they are in pain. I also learn these women are always in pain: "My knees, my back, my kidney, my stomach, I have a high blood pressure," Yes, one woman can tell you she suffers from all of these. I don't know if it is psychological or it is indeed true. I learn women here are also sensitive, I am asked over and over again if the doctor is a male or a female, I also learn they don't see their local nurses if they are males. I learn that these women don't get mammogram or pap smear tests. I learn they are not educated enough about any health or hygiene matters, everything from brushing teeth to smoking-- yes, many women in this village smoke. My friend Pura Z. said she smokes two packs of a day.

Smoking a norm among elder women

As we sit and talk, laugh and share stories I begin to uncover various other issues in this village. There seem to be many unwanted pregnancies and there is much interest from the women on contraception... after five, six and seven children. I meet a woman who seems to have been pregnant every single year since her marriage. I must also mention women here give birth at home, without the presence of a doctor or a professionally trained midwife. I learn these women all know one another, they are all somehow related, and they like to show off their new buk (bride) in large gatherings -- though I also realize they bring them to the doctor early on after their marriage if they are not expecting a few months after their marriage.

I am caught on my phone tweeting 

I make more friends. I learn being ill can be costly, serious illnesses means a travel to the capital, transport can be costly, and so are the doctors and medicine. I learn being an older women and being pregnant can be seen as shame. I also realize that coming once as a visit is not going to have much benefit. Many of these patients need follow ups.

Every women, every child, should have access to a great doctor and the best possible medication, without exceptions, without excuses. We also need to educate and empower women like Lami'a (a young woman I met with six kids) so that she can bring up her children in a better, healthier way.

The highlight of my day... 

My day is a little depressing. But it was special. Despite the major health crises, I realize once again that I live in a society where people are exceptionally friendly, welcoming, warm hearted, kind and after five minutes of meeting them it feels like a lifetime. As I sit on my bed tonight, I remember the faces I met, and I miss them. I wish to revisit as a friend, I wish to sit down on the ground as they speak of their life and I want to listen, ask questions. I want to laugh with them, and if I can... I want to help. They deserve help.

Hope for the future

P.S. I  am waiting for the return of some of our young Kurds abroad, who are studying medicine or have completed their degrees. I have a belief that the future of Kurdistan is in their hands, and I believe they are passionate, motivated and strong enough to contribute, they will come and save this crises. I know they will... all day today I was thinking of people like Kanyaw, Shak, Tara, Leila and many others.

All pictures were taken for the purpose of this blog only!