Reaching out to out of reach women

Dear Loyal Blog Follower...

First patient, a baby needing heart surgery

If only you knew my thoughts and feelings today. If only you knew what I saw, and what I heard. If only...  I went with the START NGO Mobile Medical Team,  aiming to take medical services for women who are out of reach. The NGO had its own equipment and staff, though today the mobile medical bus (I think that is what it's called) was borrowed from the MoH - but it was not as functional as we thought it would be. 

The bus was given to the KRG's MoH by the Koreans

As the team began setting up, I spoke to the first woman there. She was in her thirties with a baby held in her arms. I say hello and the baby holds my fingers tight. (And me being all spiritual, I interpret this as the baby's way of telling me 'I need you Saz!') I am told by the mother that she took the new born to Erbil a few days back -- of course she paid so much money for transport, doctor and medication -- then realized the four month old needs a heart surgery after her second birthday. That's how my day began.

Women in the village waiting to see the Dr.

In less than an hour of our arrival I already had over 40 women's names in my notebook, I try to give them numbers so they know the sequence to see the doctor, only to realize most of them have not gone through any schooling that they can't recognize numbers. I feel guilty. I hope I have not caused any embarrassment. 

Sitting with the women in the village

The room inside the mosque (where we are based) is full and I sit on the floor outside with a group of women. They are friendly, very friendly and we talk as if we have known each other all our lives. I love these moments. I think to myself: "This is me. this is what I love doing."We talk of many things as we wait for other women to go in one by one to see the doctor. In this seating on the floor, I make many friends, and I also learn a lot about my own society, a place about 45 minutes outside my capital.

My first new friend, Pura Z.

I learn these women never go to a doctor for a checkup, only when they are in pain. I also learn these women are always in pain: "My knees, my back, my kidney, my stomach, I have a high blood pressure," Yes, one woman can tell you she suffers from all of these. I don't know if it is psychological or it is indeed true. I learn women here are also sensitive, I am asked over and over again if the doctor is a male or a female, I also learn they don't see their local nurses if they are males. I learn that these women don't get mammogram or pap smear tests. I learn they are not educated enough about any health or hygiene matters, everything from brushing teeth to smoking-- yes, many women in this village smoke. My friend Pura Z. said she smokes two packs of a day.

Smoking a norm among elder women

As we sit and talk, laugh and share stories I begin to uncover various other issues in this village. There seem to be many unwanted pregnancies and there is much interest from the women on contraception... after five, six and seven children. I meet a woman who seems to have been pregnant every single year since her marriage. I must also mention women here give birth at home, without the presence of a doctor or a professionally trained midwife. I learn these women all know one another, they are all somehow related, and they like to show off their new buk (bride) in large gatherings -- though I also realize they bring them to the doctor early on after their marriage if they are not expecting a few months after their marriage.

I am caught on my phone tweeting 

I make more friends. I learn being ill can be costly, serious illnesses means a travel to the capital, transport can be costly, and so are the doctors and medicine. I learn being an older women and being pregnant can be seen as shame. I also realize that coming once as a visit is not going to have much benefit. Many of these patients need follow ups.

Every women, every child, should have access to a great doctor and the best possible medication, without exceptions, without excuses. We also need to educate and empower women like Lami'a (a young woman I met with six kids) so that she can bring up her children in a better, healthier way.

The highlight of my day... 

My day is a little depressing. But it was special. Despite the major health crises, I realize once again that I live in a society where people are exceptionally friendly, welcoming, warm hearted, kind and after five minutes of meeting them it feels like a lifetime. As I sit on my bed tonight, I remember the faces I met, and I miss them. I wish to revisit as a friend, I wish to sit down on the ground as they speak of their life and I want to listen, ask questions. I want to laugh with them, and if I can... I want to help. They deserve help.

Hope for the future

P.S. I  am waiting for the return of some of our young Kurds abroad, who are studying medicine or have completed their degrees. I have a belief that the future of Kurdistan is in their hands, and I believe they are passionate, motivated and strong enough to contribute, they will come and save this crises. I know they will... all day today I was thinking of people like Kanyaw, Shak, Tara, Leila and many others.

All pictures were taken for the purpose of this blog only! 

A Kurd on her way to Harvard

GUEST BLOGGER

Dr. Kanya Said, Harvard student

Dear Loyal Blog Follower, 

The success of my friends is my success, and their dreams coming true is my dream coming true. Kanya is a young Kurd, she is an amazingly Loyal friend and a great individual who is on her way to Harvard for her Masters. Since she is a true inspiration I asked her to write to you this week. So here is what she sent me:

"Where there is a will there is a way to reach your dreams"












I want to start by saying that this is unlike anything I have written before. This is an insight to who I am, Kanya Said, and my dreams and hopes for the future.












I was born and raised in Gothenburg, Sweden but I have a Kurdish soul. My parents came to Sweden from Slemani because they had to leave, but they were dedicated to bring our homeland to our home. The language at home has always been Kurdish and the bedtime stories were all about the beauty of Kurdistan's nature, our people's generosity, brave hearts, and sacrifices. The older I got the more I learned and understood about my people's unhealed wounds from the past and their constant struggle to defend their rights to live.








Today I am a proud Kurd from Kurdistan. I have always loved school and knew that Medicine was my future. I started my educational journey by studying Dentistry for 3 years and then I changed to Medicine. I plan to finish both educations. Besides my basic education I write medical articles to corporate what I find important into the Health Care system in Kurdistan.
















I am also writing a book "Manual of Medicine" in Kurdish that will help Kurds to increase their common medical knowledge; I work as a volunteer at Rosengrenska stiftelsen in Gothenburg with doctors giving medical care to immigrants that don't have legal access to it. It's worth mentioning that a lot of these patients are from our homeland.











On top of all of this I am working on my Master's Degree, and it's research, which I will be doing at Harvard University in Boston. I am the first Medical student from Gothenburg University who's going there.










I try to go back to Kurdistan as often as possible but due to my studies it's difficult to find an opportunity to do so. However when I do I try to be active as a volunteer in as many organizations as possible. The summer of 2012 for example I had the benefit to visit a school in Kanakawa, Slemani, where they were teaching English for free, with the famous journalist and photographer Donald Boström. There we were lead by the amazing TedxErbil speaker Sabah Ahmed and our group was also invited to his home where he told us about his successful inventions and future plans.










It's hard for me to travel often but like Cale Salih said: "You can travel through the internet and books"  and that's exactly what I am doing now. Pages like Facebook and Twitter makes it easy to get the latest news on the situation in our homeland and for people around the world to make their voice heard by those who should hear it. It's like a virtual diaspora but at the same time we can show the world what Kurdistan is through different pages online and worldwide events where we step up and show who we are. This new generation is, in my eyes, different from the previous one because most of us see Kurdistan and all its parts as one while the old minds are still limited in thinking of political parties.












The people I have met online have affected my life the most. I have learned that there are successful Kurds all around the world who are following their dreams and it makes me proud. It gives me hope that together we can fulfill the ultimate dream of mine, that I share with many others-- an independent Kurdistan.












Going to Harvard for my MD is a dream of mine coming true and I can't wait to go there and raise my beautiful Kurdish Flag to show everyone that I am from Kurdistan and to let some of those in the academic world know who we are and that we can make it here as well if we want to. 









As Sazan Mandalawi says "Be the change you want to see in Kurdistan." And that is what I'm trying to do. Medicine is my field but everyone has a dream of their own. I'm telling you my story because I want you to know that it is possible to be who you want to be. It's not easy at all but "where there is a will there is a way." If I can do it so can you. I have many more plans and dreams for the future. Most of them I have to fulfill myself but to reach the higher ones I need my Kurdish brothers and sisters.










Kanya Said,

Erbil is Joyful - 2013 Welcome!

Dearest, most loyal Blog Follower,

I couldn't let this day go without making a quick entrance. My last blog for this year.. How amazing and beautiful it is to celebrate New Year in Erbil. I only had a chance to take a quick drive around Erbil last night to witness just how joyful the city and its people are. I came back and stole some pictures that my friends had posted on Facebook to give you a little insight. 

At night there is no place to park your car in the heart of Erbil, near the Qalat

The city is smiling, it is vibrant, it is joyful, it is sparkling with color and all you have to do is take your car for a drive or go for a walk by the qalat (citadel), in the malls or visit Iskan to realize that it is a festive reason.

Kurdistan decorated for Christmas and New Year. Pic by H.S.

Young people are celebrating this year more than the past six years I have been year. It seems like year after year the Christmas and New Year spirit is becoming more vibrant. The biggest Christmas tree was put up in Ankawa, advertisements for parties and concerts are everywhere. Most of them are clearly labeled they are family events, which encourage women and men to take part together. Although don't be surprised to hear elderly people complain that the years are passing so quickly and they're getting older. 

Babylon Christmas & New Year festival, Pic by S.E

One of the most traditional ways to celebrate New Year is for the relatives and close friends to all gather in one house and stay up till midnight. Otherwise people walk on the main streets and take part in mass celebrations, usually Fire Works light the sky as the clock strikes 12. Oh yes! And how can I forget the text messages. It is one of those days of the year where you feel special that everyone is remembering you. Basically what you do, you forward the best text you have about New Year to all your contacts! (Just make sure it doesn't include names)

Ainkawa entrance (Your neck needs some exercise. Rotating a picture is a PROBLEM)

While you're out make sure you have a warm Shelm sold on the streets everywhere!

I have got to go. It is a big day today. We're taking the kids at the orphanage to Family Fun. I promise to blog about it next year. 

Entrance to Minaret Park in Erbil

Almost every corner is decorated.

From Mandalawi.blogspot.com and the best city in the world I wish you a year full of happiness and success. A year where you will work hard to achieve all that you want to achieve, beyond all I wish you good health. For 2013: Believe. Dream. Achieve.

Until next year xwa hafiz

Pictures taken from Facebook pages of Huda, Suhaib & Ruwayda - thanks. One was taken by me, I am sure you can guess which one! :) 

Be the change you want to see in Kurdistan

To the most loyal blog reader in the world, I write this entry after a long, tiring day. Yet when I return to my room at home I feel great even though the things I saw during the course of the day were enough to give me immediate grey hairs.^

I turn 23 next month, and what a great way to finish 22 years of my life by empowering young people in high schools across Erbil. I can't think of a greater gift to give myself than spending my final weeks of 22 doing something I am so passionate about with people who I love and believe in so much.* I see a gap, a huge gap and here I am with a team of the greatest people I have ever met trying to fill  this gap in our youth today. We are empowering young people. 

Today the mission was an all girls school. This was not with the greatest building and certainly did not have the best facilities. If you compare it to the west this is poor standards, but compared to the context of where I am, this is probably an above average high school. It is evident there are attempts to make this place student friendly- with illustrations on the walls in the inside. If you ask me, both schools I went to today I would rather call them prisons but you're lucky not long ago I visited a different school in Erbil where the facilities were just WOW, and no, it was not a private one. If I hadn't seen that I would probably bombard your mind about the horrible conditions of our schools here, but I know it is a work in process. Annnyyyy wayyyyyy.....!! On the bright side of things...

There I am, standing with girls around 16 to 18 years old, this time the focus is on violence against woman. "Oh God, not that again!!" That's what you were thinking, right?

When the two-hour session was over they would stay behind and talk, ask questions and I can see within them the eagerness to grow, to become something. They tell me they want to be lawyers, teachers and one even said she dreamed of becoming a police woman!

These girls argued that they stand against polygamy. These same girls speak passionately and wholeheartedly about the confrontations they face in society about shamefulness and the obstacles in their life; and they are still firm believers that the stereotypical roles of men and women no longer exist.

When asked to undertake role plays, they seem to be actresses. When debating topics about sexual harassment, rights, privileges and society some of them speak like lawyers and human rights activists. These girls are passionate and can be leaders, change makers, and if educated correctly with complete confidence I can say Kurdistan will be in a great hands. But. There is always a but.

I know and I realize, like so many others that I have seen, these girls are not getting the chances, and opportunities they need. They lack an environment that supports them to think outside the box, to believe in their dreams, and to have hope. If you ask me, if we don't work with these minds now then believe me we will lose another generation of youth, who in a matter of years will  have children of their own raised with a mindset that is not going progress this nation.

I promise them a one week of empowerment workshop in their summer break. Only because I believe these girls have within them talent, skills and thought to shape Kurdistan and shake the world. But we must begin working on them now… before it is too late. You see, here you can't just stay back after school for extracurricular activities, you can't ask the principle to provide you with the class on a weekend. But with their determination, and our commitment we will make it happen.

I have so many wishes and so many ideas, but there is only a handful that I can do. We are now working on this idea of peer education across Kurdistan, starting from Erbil, I have this vision of creating youth leaders and role models in every high school in the province. It is going to be happen. I know it will. Together, we will make it happen!

As for school number two. I decided to leave that for tomorrow, but the picture of my hand below might give you a hint.

 Keep smiling until I write again tomorrow and please remember: Be the change you want to see in Kurdistan

^The reason? Staff. School staff. No more comments.

*23 is going to be a turn in the road career wise. You need to stay tuned on tasbih-cha to know more about this. 

All pictures taken here are property of START NGO. 

Live from Erbil- Lets go to Tayrawa!!

The greatest, most Loyal Blog Reader in the entire universe!!

Now, don't you just feel special being my guest in this blog today?

A butcher in Tayrawa - Erbil (Hawler)

OK. So, what have I been up to lately? Oh God where do I start. I want that perfect Jli Kurdi* so I asked good friend DS to help me find the rightt material, because she just happens to always wear the most beautiful Kurdish dresses, even at home.

I knew it was going to be a great day out when she told me in this super excited voice "hmmm you want material for Jli Kurdi? Then lets go to  Tayrawa!"  And that's how the afternoon began- at Tayrawa. I dressed more modestly than I usually do (something longer on my jeans and nothing with short sleeves) only because Tayrawa is different  to other shopping areas in Erbil- I realized DS and her sister had also thought the same.

In search for material for Kurdish clothes in Tayrawa

Anyway. DS is just as crazy about being in Kurdistan--no wonder she's my friend--and she loves all these places in Erbil that still have the traditional feel to it. We went around looking for material for Kurdish clothes, though we didn't find what we were looking for, but I had the time of my life. You would walk the main street (which is so busy and hectic with all the cars- OH YES THERE IS NO PARKING!!!) pass all the shops and you smell torshiyat*, then walk a bit more and its the smell of meat--not that I like it, but it gives a very different feel to the whole shopping experience-- then there are the people who are very different to the individuals you might see sitting in a coffee shop in Family Mall or at Costa[RICCCA].
 

Finding a car park is the worse problem you can face in Tayrawa.

 This area is usually cheaper than other shopping places around Erbil and also things like fruit and vegetables are fresh. The local market has a proper Kurdish feel to it. No it is not perfectly clean, nor is it the best experience for a girl in a pair of jeans and a T-shirt but if you can blend it it is better than any Family Mall experience. Basically, the three of us would walk and our conversations were like this:

DS: (Breathes in deeply) Saz I love it here. Can you smell the turshi?
SM: aaaaah yes, Turshi (huge smile and taking in deep breaths) Is that a Gucci hand bag (pointing to a little shop)
DS: ((Breathes in deeply, thinking I love it here) Yes, for 15 hazar dinar! Look at the food
SM: Kche I love it dirty, unhygienic gaas. Lets have ice cream!!!

Gaas sandwich restaurant in Tayrawa

Aaah. Yes!!  The ice cream!!! Usually I would either have a falafl or a gaas sandwich with everything in it including onions, tomatoes, pickles and what ever else there is but since our stomachs were not screaming for food there was a great alternative. Now, this is not the healthiest milk ice cream you have had in your life, but the taste is so unique to three places: Iskan, Tayrawa and the shops surrounding the outside of the qaysari bazaar near the citadel.

Just ask for mushakal (mixture of all) though I love the green the most!!! YUM!

emmmm!!!!

 Somethings in Erbil are best the traditional way. Somethings I just don't want them to change. Somethings must and need to stay as they are. No matter how much we progress and develop, no matter how many fancy buildings and malls we have there is no place like Tayrawa. With all its shortcomings it gives a true insight to the lives of many Kurdish families in Erbil.

A lady who just bought fresh samoon from the nanawa (bakery) for her family.

As we began to leave just before sunset this lady got my attention. Like many others, she had left home to walk to the local bakery and get bread for dinner. I am sure she had cooked a meal at home already. I have so much respect for these women.

Next time you're in Erbil try to leave the malls for a while and give Tayrawa a chance. You won't regret it.

Until next time
khwa-hafiz


* Jli Kurdi is the Kurdish word for the traditional Kurdish clothes. Turshi is closest to the English word Pickles though I don't know if it is exactly the same or not.
All pictures were taken by either me or DS from my BlackBerry only and exclusively for this blog. I promise to improve my photographs! Special thanks for DS for leaving her son and spending the afternoon with me (DY too).

LIVE FROM ERBIL- At the marathon

To the most loyal blog follower in the world- Hellloooo!!!
am katat bash!!!!! 
Okay okay, I admit this blog comes a tiny winy little bit late (as in almost two weeks late!) but look at the bright side, at least I am writing about it. I actually ran (more like 'walked' wink* wink*) a marathon.

Ready. Set. Go.

So.  I went online and wrote my name for the Erbil International Marathon and started filling in the girls' inboxes asking them to take part as well. Initially I was all for the 10 km run for the second Erbil International Marathon. All good, right?

Little CUTE boy with his father at the Erbil International Marathon for peace

Then good old friend, NQ, (if you're a Loyal Blog Follower you'd know exactly who she is) decides to go pick up our shirts and bags, while she's there she changes my 10 km run into 2 km. She knows her friend Saz will faint after 100 meters. So, here I am making a big deal of the marathon and ended up not evening running but walking for 2 km with little toddlers and primary school kids. But I had the time of my life.

The CUTE little boy taking a rest at every bench he saw!

A run for peace on a Friday or a Saturday morning is very new here, for over a few thousand people to turn up was just amazing. There were uni girls with their mums, friends, and many fathers and sons. The atmosphere I must admit was amazing.

After the finish line.

 Once through the finish line--so proud we made it to the end-- the 10 km runners came. We didn't end up staying for the arrival of the 42 km runners but I could see people coming through the finish with all different backgrounds; Africans, Americans, British, Canadian, Arabs, Turks, Kurds, Christians, Muslims, everyone! All colours and nationalities. It was a proud moment even though I wished for it to be more organized but I couldn't have asked for a better morning.

Somewhere over the rainbow....  What a finish to the marathon in Park Sami Abdul Rahman

The experience was very different, we need many such events in Erbil and other cities to enjoy ourselves, and get together a community. I was even happier to see important figures, politicians, celebrities and famous faces in their tracksuits or shorts taking part in the run. Step by step change comes to a society.

NQ and I trying to find a shortcut exist on this complicated map, me+maps= :(

Me after the marathon. Felt very proud.

and what do Kurds have after running a marathon? Yaprax (dolma!!!!!) Aaaah! Love mum.

p.s. I have dared myself to actually run the 10 km one next year. I have started going to the gym few days a week. That marathon was a true wake up call. My family have all agreed to take part next year!

All pictures taken by me and good friend NQ by my BB purely for the purpose of this blog!! Yes, yes, yes, I am slowly progressing with all this technology thing.

LIVE FROM ERBIL: BIG DREAMS but step by step

Hellloooooo from Hawler!!

My dearest, most Loyal Reader.. When I am quiet for a bit you know something great is taking place!

There is always something exciting happening in my life here! This week my day has begun at 7:45 every morning until 5:30 pm, it is work but it never feels like work to me.

During one of our Y-Peer activities on day

At the moment I am working on a dream project, the idea is to train young people to go and hold peer education sessions to youth in high schools, colleges and youth centers. Something that has never taken place in Kurdistan before! Hence, it is the youth who are learning from other youth. Yup! Very new right?!

Never be reluctant to try something different

 My previous experience of giving a peer education session (I blogged about it here) inspired me to prepare many other youth to do the same. Soon a number of my close friends became involved, they took part in various workshops and slowly began holding sessions for other youth, the initiative grew and now with START NGO and UNFPA we are making it happen.

and it is show time! A role play activity with much benefit

 The group that I have been working with in the last four days are great in so many ways. I am already feeling emotional knowing that tomorrow work with this group will end, although I feel and know that we have planted in them a seed for the future. I know I will see them in great places doing great differences in the days, months and years to come. Tonight, I must admit I am very proud of myself and the team that I work with.Through interactive games and activities we manage to build a friendly atmosphere that the youth can learn a lot from.

Groups discuss their conclusions

During the breaks they often refuse to go out, instead we sit on the floor and sing. Few of the participants have great voices; one of the girls in particular has a voice that can produce a world's best seller album. We manage to write little compliments to each other and place it in the paper male boxes we have created, we play energizers when we feel we can't take in the raw information anymore and we share our stories and experiences. At the same time we are learning and studying, in a fun, youth friendly way. 

Group work!

 I can sit down and blog about each of the participants, about their personalities, their life and everything that I see in them. Here we are, 32 young people (17 in my group) have been waking up 7 every morning and going home at 5:30 just to be able to gain the knowledge and the technique so that they can voluntarily go and change other young people's lives. Now this is dedication. This is the type of young people that I love to surround myself with.

Sharing some laughs!!! :)

 We are training this group of youth to be peer educators specializing in family relations. So after 40 hours of training this group will get their certificates from the UNFPA and will then start going off in groups of two or three and start holding sessions for youth all over Erbil. 

Somethings in life are priceless, like this smile!

The greatest thing about this project is that often young people get a chance to talk and express; to speak of their thoughts and express their emotions. I often get a true insight into their lives, their confrontations, challenges and also their plans for the future.

Know this face well, she's Kurdistan's future leader!

This is Kurdistan, and this is the Erbil that I live in today!!