Basa! Enough! Kafi!

To the world's greatest blog follower*

The family is packing, the first thing that came to my mind when I realized we're travelling was to make a blog entry before I leave. I have made an escape to write this blog entry before someone finds me and yells out: "Sazaaaaaaaaan!!"

The best thing that our students in UKH did at the time was put together this HUGE Kurdish flag, it's become our symbol. Where ever you see it, know that this is UKH spirit

This was a random unexpected morning call trip. Jezhn (eid) is around the corner, and while most people like to celebrate in big cities we take the opportunity to go to villages, towns etc… I always return refreshed. I enjoy the company of the simple people over there.

While I celebrate Jezhn I also realize there are people of my greater family who are under attacks, who are being bombarded. Recently little children were massacred as they were with their family leaving a mountain escaping bombardment from one of our neighbouring countries.

No matter how proud I am as a Kurd, there are often times where I sigh and let out a long "Aaaakh" this week I set free many "aaakhs". Iran attacking from their side, Turkey from another and even within Iraq there were attacks on Kurds on areas that are neighbours to my hometown of Mandaly.

We really had enough

I re-read the first line of my diary entrance on the day of the demonstrations in Erbil a few days back against Turkey's recent air attacks on Kurdish soil. In big, bold scribble writing I had written: "for god sakes, enough is enough!"

Indeed, enough.

Thanks to Narin B. Qaradaxi, Bewar Rwandzi , Ashna Shareff, Sara Sinjari and few other girls who helped with posters, organizing protests and making everything run smoothly. The guys did a outstanding job too. So proud of UKH graduates. Their motivation and dedication pushed this a long way

The picture of the little girl with her body parts shredded to pieces remains in front of my eyes and visits my dreams every single night. For the sake of that innocent child, I took on the streets of Erbil to call out "Enough!" for the sake of the soul of that little girl, I write words of anger and resentment. That innocent child is not a stranger to me, she is my sister, my loved one, that innocent young girl could just be a part of me.

These two kids and their parents Kurds from Turkey... I guess they stood against the young girl their age who was killed by the warplanes earlier in the week

We endured the Anfal, we suffered the consequences of Halabja, we've experienced deportations, mass killings and have felt the pain of chemical attacks and genocide. Our grandparents—and parents—fought side by side with the mountains, and we managed to begin a new page in our history books. As Kurds we stood up and built. We never gave up. I am not ashamed to say that we were almost entirely alone on this journey, no one held our hands.

My hand, holding the hand of Ashna Shareff, a dear friend, the nicest blend of colours around her wrist. Thanks Ashna and Narin who took their time early in the morning to create ribbons for demonstrators

As a Kurd I know too well that it was the atrocious mind of enemies that caused the massacres written in our history pages. It is now the year 2011, in the 21^st century. At any cost, the blood of any Kurdish child will not go down the drain. No innocent young girl, on the lap of her mother should be shattered to pieces, with her face burned, her limbs broken, and her brain out from one of her ears.

Close friend and blogger Bewar Rwandizi also in this picture

Enough is enough.

Let a nation live. How hard can it be?

We are educated on the western curriculum that teaches the Westphalia state system; the right to self determination, the right to democracy and the basic right to live.

The "right" repeated over and over again, the "right" which we just don’t have. The pain kills.

The crowd of demonstrators in Erbil

What don't I have that other citizens of states across the world have? I have a rich culture, and a unique language; I have a bloody history and a land where I belong. What does it take for you to recognize me? 

I'm surrounded by the world's most amazing girls-- they inspire me more and more as each day goes by with their passion, love and motivation

 I took out the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. I read article after article, to the point that I began to sniff. For me, as a Kurd, as I was reading, that declaration was a checklist, in my head I would make arguments whether or not I could tick—or cross— some of the articles. At the end if it were an exam, I would fail. There were more crosses than ticks.

Peace. That's what we're asking for

But you know what? One day we will have all our rights. The power of walking in a street with the Kurdish flags in both hands swaying in the air and chanting out loud, you feel empowered like you have never felt before. You feel like you are expressing and screaming the words that the innocent children who lost their life would have screamed out if they could leave their graves and protest now.

Young Kurds feeling it's their responsibility to speak up

Another one of those days that I can spend the entire night writing in my diary about, another one of those hours where it will be made history in Mandalawi's life, another one of those instances where I can raise my head up, look into the sky in such a way where the sun's rays will water my eyes—look up and say "I'm a proud Kurd. I will be as strong as my only friends— as strong as the mountains."

Me in the morning of the demonstration (notice it's Ramadan) with a group of friends preparing some posters

Jezhntan Pirozbet in advance- see you when I return.

MUM: "SAZAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAN" ooooops!! Someone is in trouble.

*Proud to have a new follower to the blog, and a newly arrived member to the Mandalawi family S. M. K. - waxerhati.

A part of this blog entry has made up my "Memoirs" column in the Kurdish Globe this week. Some pictures taken by me, but the really good ones are taken by my great friend Sara S. Sinjari :) I bet your wondering why some of them looked so good.... because I didn't take them!!

What makes you happy?

To my dearest blog follower,

"What makes you happy?"


I posed this question to relatives and few friends most said family, loved ones and good health makes them happy (they're my friends, so I expected these answers). The question was returned to me by a short text from a relative, she wrote: "And what would make Miss Mandalawi happy? An independent Kurdistan looool"* I texted back four words: "Read my blog tonight!" so here I am feeling like I am going to explode if I don't get this entry done before Iftar.

What is 'happy' anyway?  

It's funny how shopping, watching TV with a bag of Salt and Vinegar (actually, make that Original) chips can make us happy. But what is true happiness? What does make me, you and others really content? For sure, being with family, friend and know that they're all in good health. But that's not the happiness I mean. I am talking about the happiness where at that particular moment, right then and there, you feel like you own the world. You feel nothing can ruin that moment.

I always knew this (below) made me happy, but now I know that nothing can make me happier than seeing the smile of a child on my lap. Wait. I know this sounds corny, but let me finish. Please do continue reading.  

Yesterday, my dear friends^ decided it was time to visit our little—and old—friends at Mali Khanda (Khanda house, I'm going to avoid using the word orphanage!) and the Elderly People's Home (khanooy basal-chwan).

Above: As we leave one of the houses in Mali Khanda. A very HAPPY good-bye

Of all the places I visit in Erbil these two are my favorite. Of all the outings one can do with their friends, it is outings like yesterday that I get the most satisfaction and enjoyment from.

I can't describe the feeling I get when we enter each of the three houses at Mali Khanda. This is not just the warm greeting and hugs that we receive, but to go in and see those kids laughing, crying, fighting, giggling, and playing brings HAPPINESS.

Lana~ was unwell, having her on my lap almost the entire time she wouldn't speak a single word, just gazes up with her sparkling eyes and smiles. She is a twin with her sister, who happens to have 6 other siblings (and two sets of other twins, if that makes sense). The mother is ill and is in critical condition, the father does not work and only has certain time to look after the kids and afford their expenses, so four of the girls are at the orphanage, including one set of the twins. The little boys are living with him though.

I am so thankful these children are where they are. Their home is clean, it's beautiful, and in many ways in is filled with love. These kids get three healthy meals a day; they dress well, go to kindergarten and will also go to school. The kids get to meet people, go out, and won't ever have to work under the warm sun or be abused by their parents who are psychologically worn out, and probably won't ever be able to provide them with the privileges they have in Mali Khanda.  What could make little Lana happy. Candy? A toy? A nice top? Maybe she would enjoy opening it and finding what is inside the wrapping paper. But Lana needed affection; she needed a warm hug, someone to give her one-on-one time. Someone to say: "You are beautiful, you are special." Children aren't oblivious, they need to feel warmth and fondness.



The most beautiful I. on Bewar's lap

I know this, because she gave affection in return. The way she held me—and wouldn't let go—the way she would stare, and smile.

Lana's smile made me happy. The way she would reach to the camera and want to take pictures, that too made me happy. The way Isra (who I wish to adopt someday) held my hand, sat on my lap, gave me hugs and kisses—that was also an incredibly happy moment.

Right then and there, you forget about deadlines, horrific breaking news you heard the night before, you forget about the miseries of the world when you look into the eye of an innocent child, who just happens to be smiling.

When you leave Mali Xanda, naturally you forgive the people who have hurt you, you begin to take cautious in how you treat others, you realize that life isn't worth all the complications. If a little child can live far from the biggest thing in the world—the love of a mother and father—then I can confront anything that can come my way. 

This was taken by Lana's sister

 You don't know what to expect from the little ones. Every time it's something new, the first time I went Isra and A'la (sisters) were little children with messy hair who liked to draw and have sticky hands from eating lollypops. Today, they are both as sweet as ever, and this year they're going to start going to school. They're unpredictable, (I don't know who has taught them, but they've learned to pose funny faces when taking picture) with unique personalities. I can't help but think of how they are going to grow up and what they will become. I have a feeling they're going to grow into young women full of passion with an endeavor to help others.

If you are ever in Erbil PLEASE do visit the kids. You will feel the happiness that I am talking about. You go to make them smile, but they are the ones who will make you happy.

Dear R.M. an independent Kurdistan would certainly make me happy "LoooL". But for now, happiness seems to be coming from the simplest of things in life. (Above: My little friend and I at a happy moment in Mali Khanda)

*It took me such a long time to realize that LOL means Laugh Out Loud, but what does LOOOL stand for?

^ I am lucky to have the world's greatest friends, who are dedicated to giving their love, time, and whatever else they can to others: L.L, S.R, N.Q, Bewar, Ashna— make sure you follow their blogs— with the existence of girls like them, be sure, Kurdistan's future will be in good hands.

~Lana, is not the real name of the little one, I prefer to keep her name in particular anonymous. I haven't included her picture either.

An Arabic perspective on Erbil

Dear dedicated follower**….

Summer in Kurdistan has been very warm, in fact to put it straight the weather has been boiling hot. However, this hasn't prevented thousands of people from other parts of Iraq to visit the region for the summer break. Coming back to Erbil from Gali Ali Beg or Bekhal to Shaqlawa on a Friday evening is mission impossible. Hence, it is not rare to have a stop in Shaqlawa until past midnight before making a slow move back to Erbil.

The tourists are everywhere, in the malls, bazaar, at the waterfalls and of course on the mountains. Recently I had youth training sessions with participants from different parts of Iraq taking part. For seven days I sat with a different group in the morning tea break—not only to get an insight of what they thought about Kurdistan, but also to understand more about their life back in their cities.

You don't believe me? This is a line of cars before even reaching Shaqlawa, (approx. 10 p.m.)

 Here is what some of the Arab youth had to say about Erbil:

Hussein, first year Medicine student in Baghdad

"The last time I came was in 2009, it has transformed a lot since then. The one thing I can't have enough of is sitting on the mountains at night." He says there was no taxi late at night as they wanted to return, "A car with two Kurdish guys, that were total strangers to us, gave us a lift down the mountain."

 

Noor Abdelnabi, 22, from Salahaddin currently living in Baghdad

"It's an open city. It's beautiful. The people are very friendly as well. Language is a barrier between us, the tourists, and the locals but they try to understand us ,in particular the taxi drivers. Education wise I feel Erbil is very much ahead."

"The best part of my visit is that I learned to Ice Skate, I can't wait to come back and try it again the next time I visit."

Rusul Akram, 22 from Baghdad, BA in history

"Erbil is a place for everyone. Anyone can enjoy it. There are people from different backgrounds here. I don't feel like I am an outsider here, it is the second time I visit and every time I come I must go to the Citadel—sitting there is beyond imagination."

Abdulrahman Abdulrazaq, from Salahaddin said he comes once a year with his friends for an entire week.

 "It's nice, it's beautiful, the people are helpful. I like the way the roads are organized, there is great hospitality in the hotels and the staff are friendly. Every time we visit we have to go to Bekhal and Shaqlawa."

Kaka Karwan

During the sessions they had to make puppets and use them to tell stories that reflected issues faced in the Iraqi society today. They name their puppets Kurdish names (Kaka Azad, and Kaka Karwan are just two examples) and two days into the training they say Bayani Bash and Choni Bashi?*

Thurgham Jalal, 21, from Djel

"This is the first time I visit since 2001. It just doesn't seem like you are in Iraq, Erbil is definitely nicer than Baghdad. Before coming sometimes we heard that the Kurds are conservative and don't interact with Arabs, but it was the exact opposite. They are friendly, and always show you directions when you don't know the way. Taxi drivers here don't fool you by charging you extra only because you're an outsider. I didn't think there would be buildings and infrastructure to this degree..many places are well looked after. I can't tell you the best place, because every place I visit is nicer than the one before, but if I had to tell you one place, then it is Family Fun."

Shayma Jamal, 26, (Thurgham's older sister)

"In one word, it's nice. There are many historical and tourist sites. I like it how some places are quiet, you can just sit, wish and dream. I see Erbil today similar to Baghdad back in the days. The language is definitely an issue, because many Kurds in particular the younger ones don't speak Arabic. [She laughs] Even without the language we can communicate, and that's what's great about the people here. Compared to where I come from girls are much freer here, and also the infrastructure is unbelievable. My favorite place in Erbil is definitely Aqua Park, it has everything from the pools to bowling and ice skating. But this doesn't mean the other places aren't just as nice and enjoyable."

As Shayma spoke, I couldn't focus on her words, as much as I tried to write and at the same time peak from under my eyes at a group of the Arab youth who were in Kurdish clothes trying to learn Halparke (Kurdish dance) and singing "Nergis Nergis Nergis."

The Halparke

 Rend Ayad, Medical Student in Baghdad,

"Before in Baghdad we had Kurdish friends, so I am not surprised of their hospitality, every time I visit I look forward to keep in touch with the new friends I make here. The many people that I have seen were hard working and successful, they are ambitious. For the first time ever I went ice-skating, on a teleferique and for the first time in my life I went to a football match (the one between Iraq and Yemen) you don't dare as a girl to go in Baghdad. I am not saying it was totally okay here, there were people who looked at me strangely, but at least I went. Here it is okay for a group of girls to go out together, whereas back in Baghdad if you do go, you need a man to take you, then pick you up and maybe stay there to watch over you as well."

A puppets made by participants, talking about two Iraqis from the south visiting Kurdistan, this particular story discussed the abuse against young women in the South

A'la Hashim, From Thiqar, first time to visit Erbil

A'la was the quiet one in the training. The person who wouldn't speak, but when approaching him over a cake and chay with another group of youth, I was interested in what he might say. Surprisingly, the quiet young man in the training, spoke on and on about  his first visit to Erbil.

"I won't even talk about the buildings and infrastructure in Erbil, I am shocked, and it is beyond what I can say. I never imagined it lto be ike this. There are two things that stood out to me: The people are very nice ,I am not complementing ,and secondly, it is very much forward in everything from education to lifestyle. The girls and boys in Erbil, the ones that we mixed with in this training are culturally awake; there is a difference in the way that they are educated.

"It is very (exaggerates the long 'ooooo' in the word: Kolesh in Arabic, meaning very) expensive here. A pizza can cost up to 30 000 (Iraqi Dinars) and the petrol, no way, where we are it doesn't exceed 500 (Iraqi Dinars)."

A'la realizes my interest in the culture and day of life where he comes from, so I am going to use that as a separate story in an article I will write about what he had to say. I won't give it out here! Sorry! I was right, the quiet and rather shy young boy, had a story to tell, and I am just glad I managed to get it out from him.  

*I must point out the youth in the training were handpicked, nominated individuals who are leaders in their own way. These are volunteers and peace advocates. However, I am sure after their return; they will spread the word to their families and friends about their experience in Kurdistan.

**Ramazantan Pirozbet – Happy Ramadan!

Behind every Kurdish freedom fighter...

Sunday Memoirs

We always speak of our Peshmarga, the young men who fought across mountains in the worst conditions. The individuals who put their life at the forefront of death, the brave men--and of course women--who sacrificed for their nation. At commemorations, as Kurds we remember and recognize their endurance and suffering. We appreciate their sacrifices, and are thankful for their deeds.

Today, as I witnessed the mourning ceremony for the late Mrs. Hamayil Barzani many thoughts provoke my emotional heart and mind. This is not just a commemoration of the president's mother, but maybe even the mother of this nation. Barzani, and many others like herself have made me reflect on our Kurdish mothers.

No one can, or will deny the strength, courage, power, belief and loyalty of our Peshmarga. As young Kurds, we will forever show our gratitude. But behind every Peshmarga, behind every great freedom fighter, there was a greater mother, a warrior.

It was the Peshmarga who fought with no fear of death, but it was the mother who had to deal with the news of his death.

It was the Peshmarga who left home for the mountains, but it was the mother who raised the children in his absence.

It was the Peshmarga who went through mental anguish, but it was the mother whose words provided the healing.

It was the Peshmarga who suffered the physical wounds, but it was the mother who lived with the pain and carried the scar.

The mothers endured the difficulty of moving city to city, and country to country. This movement was not in the luxury of an airport with luggage that had wheels. The moving of a Kurdish mother consisted of crossing borders in the worst weather conditions, sometimes while being shelled.

There is no award on earth that is sufficient enough to be presented to the mothers of this nation. There is no deed that can be done to show our appreciation, thank you for their endurance is just a word. What will bring back their lost sons and husbands, What will bring back the joy of our mothers who didn't get to enjoy their youth?

As we commit to memory the life of a symbolic Kurdish mother, at the same time I salute every other Kurdish mother. I have memories of those I have met, and the stories they have shared with me as they go through the beads of the rosary in their hands, one by one, with their long, thin fingers. The veins lay close the surface of the skin of the shaky hands.

I salute the mother who had to rebuild her demolished house time after time.

The mother who survived fleeing her house in fear of bombardment -- not knowing that she would come back, and if she returned: would the house still be there?

The mother who had to hide her young son in the clay oven outside the house, with her heart beating a thousand times a minute in fear that the guard with the thick mustache would open the lid to find him.

The mother who hugged her son in the hopes she will see him in 15 minutes, but the tears in her eyes would not stop until the moment of her death 15 years later as that hug was the last she saw of him before being tortured, imprisoned and then killed.

The mother whose son died at the forefront of war, and the same day she buried him, she pointed out her grave next to his body.

Salute to the mother who endured physical torture in prison while being pregnant.

To the mother who lost three sons and her husband at the same time.

Salute to every mother, and the wife of every martyr who raised children to have influential roles in today's Kurdistan.

For every Kurdish mother, and grandmother, alive or dead, I salute you!

This was this week's column at the Kurdish Globe, you can see it here

A walk with Kani to the Kani...

Sunday Memoirs

Kani* is a young girl, and the daughter of a close family friend. She has plump, pink cheeks, a long black ponytail reaching her lower back and when she smiles, she reveals her two lopsided front teeth, showing a little of decay as well.

The ponytail sways side to side as she walks a little in front of me. Kani is taking me for a walk in her village to the nearby kani (freshwater spring). She is a city girl with roots in the village, she knows her way around well -- what could one possibly learn when walking with a 10-year-old Kurdish girl?

As we walk to the Kani a number of girls from the village joined the walk..

Typical, and not surprising, we greet every single man, woman and child we pass during the walk. Most of them know Kani, and I listen as the 10-year-old repeats the same replies. Some of the women kiss me as well, and even ask me to send their regards to "home" (my family) and they don't even know me, nor do they know my family.

I follow Kani, taking a shortcut

She takes me through a shortcut around the corner from the mosque and through the gardens of her relatives. An elderly woman calls out to Kani, I tag along, the woman uses the palms of both her hands to hold my cheeks before she gives me a generous number of kisses. She insists we sit at the porch, swearing that she won't let us go. I doubt any person can refuse her request. A sweet lady, with wrinkles; a hinged, C-shaped back and I can tell she has long, thick, red-colored hair under her veil.

The elderly woman and her little heaven

We sit on a red mat at the porch, looking at a colorful garden in the foreground of a breathtaking mountain backdrop. The garden of the woman is stunning -- If I knew exactly what heaven looked like, I would probably compare it to this. I feel she is a queen in a kingdom. I truly believe the little garden in front of the porch is definitely her kingdom. She has separated the different areas. In some areas, it is neatly divided into small squares -- an area for fruits, another for vegetables, a square for the onions. The trees are on the edges, evenly spaced. She reaches up and then pulls down a branch and reaches out to give me a fruit I haven't tasted before. It's sour.

Getting close to the Kani

By the time Kani and I reached the kani (the spring), our two-person walk becomes a primary school's excursion. Like a train, through the walk, we've picked up passengers until we reach the final destination.

I realized the kani is full of beautiful girls. Women who had come to get water, others who had come to wash dishes; the kani is where the cold water flows -- crystal clear and it even tastes different. The kani is where women come to catch up on gossip, where the girls meet for a chat, where they make their plans and talk about the problems related to the crops and the animals.

It is by the kani, in the camouflage of trees, that the deepest secrets of the village lay. It is where a mother asks another mother for her daughter's hand for her son. It is by the kani where the Kurdish dress is put under the rope belt and white feet are put into the cold water during the hottest gossip. It is near the kani that Romeo hides to get a peek of Juliet. The kani, for a city girl, is just another version of a coffee shop. 

A walk to remember...

Every Sunday I am going to start putting up on the blog my weekly column that is published in the Kurdish Globe

Words...

I was just watching an episode of the World Debate on the BBC while cleaning the floor tiles of my room—not a bad combination is it? And now I am waiting for Ms. Amanpour 's "This Week" to begin (and while doing that I am going to blog as well). What can I say, I missed writing to you, my dear loyal, sweet* blog follower!

My morning didn't begin too well with a visit to the Ministry of Higher Education, I was planning to return with a big smile and enjoy the rest of my day, as I finally got my unconditional offer and the dreaded CAS number has finally arrived. But I entered and left the Ministry within 5 minutes—apparently my paperwork isn't complete. (Which reminds me: employers in government offices need to smile to their fellow citizens.)

Having said this, the rest of the day went well—supas bo xwa!

I found this on our white board at the organization today (I still can't figure out how to rotate picture on blogger-- me and technology aren't good friends!)

Dear reader, aside from you—the loyal blog readers who only know me from behind your computer screen—I am lucky to have individuals* in my life who genuine, kind hearted, owners of warm hears and above all individuals who have aims, dreams and goals for their life. These are people who own their dreams, who have planned their paths and above all they have a purpose in life.

My brother calls me a nerd. But with these individuals I can pose those philosophical questions at the back of my mind, I can discuss the recent book I have read and I can visit the orphanage or the retirement house with. These are the people who don't mind to give in their Thursday afternoon or Friday morning for some volunteer work. Simply said, I am thankful to have such friends (sisters!) in my life.

Kurdish youth, who have ambitions, who believe in something, and those who are determined are making their dreams come true. They are working hard, they sacrificing but they are achieving. There is opportunity out there if they are taken advantage of. I am not saying this from the top of my head; I say this from the experience of my personal life and from those of my colleagues, friends and people who I know.

My life has been very dynamic, full of energy and experiences. This Thursday marks my final day in both my jobs. I have decided to take a little time off before starting my postgraduate studies (I have already starting receiving emails from colleagues, my boss and notice boards putting dates for "Good-Bye parties". As a Kurdish girl, like any girl in any country across the world I feel I am sacrificing in something I love for a bigger dream, for something that will be a contirbuting factor for me to take one step up in the ladder leading to where I see myself in the future years ahead. It feels awkward to leave something that you have built for a few years.  

Many of my friends are graduating this week. I am automatically starting to think of the future of this nation. When I think of the list of names of the individuals who are graduating only from UKH, I can't help but be optimistic of the future of Kurdistan. I just wish they strive hard and take every small opportunity to prove their capabilities. When set friends these birds are definitely the individuals that Kurdistan needs to prosper.

While on this note, it is not only friends who are inspiring but also professors and lectures—who I will forever be grateful for—every now and then I drop an email just to say "hello!" recently one of my previous lecturers replied back with a little poem he had written, so I thought I would share it with you on the occasion of the graduating class of 2011 from the University of Kurdistan- Hawler.  

Being University professor - what a job!

 

I love my job, professorship

teaching, researching, teaching

It does not pay much

But t lets me build young leaders

and achievers

I see them grow from naive and inexperienced lot

to critical thinkers, and leaders, and activists, and journalists

name them

I see them grow as I was seen grow

 

But I also hate with my job 

I run the risk of loosing the fruits of my labour

Just when you have struggled to provoke their talents

Just when they begin to shine

Just when they turn into prolific writers, and thinkers 

the game is suddenly over

The curtain is drawing to a close:

convocation, graduation, dance and feast

Then they are gone

The walls of the university turn deadly silent

The lecture theatres crave for them

Is this professional hazard?

But life has to go one

The job has to be done

I have to look back and begin building the next set of talents

What a job, being university proefssor!

 

Usman Tar

Erbil, 8th June 2011 

*How do I know you're sweet? Because you're reading this blog!

**B.A; A.S; N.S; S.A; J.H; J.A; M.A; M.R – as I write this you are the first that come to my mind.

Your ultimate guide to Summer Vacation in Kurdistan

To the dearest reader,

From emails and comments on this blog I have realized that a great number of young Kurds abroad are returning home (Kurdistan of course!) this summer. Most of you are visiting for a short stay. So, I have come up with the ultimate Kurdistan Summer Holiday Guide. This blog is especially for all those who are planning a visit (though I prefer to call it a vacation) Kurdistan.

I am going to give you all the details from what to pack, where to go, what to do and what to buy if 
you are visiting Erbil. What can I say, a loyal blogger to loyal readers!
Here we go, so fasten your seat-belts! 

Fly to Kurdistan, Picture by Kurdistan2007_ARTIS, Flicker

The Packing

This is the tough part, you know what to pack when you come to Kurdistan, however, there are certain things that won't come to your mind and you don't realize that you needed them until after your arrival here. So let's keep it short and sharp—packing the following items will make your stay more enjoyable:

Mosquito cream: The top of the list, since you are coming in summer and since you are going to be spending a lot evenings outside, then do think of this wisely: bring with you a good mosquito cream or propellant. Summer in Shaqlawa is great, but if you are spending the night there then you are going to itch you're way through the second day with all the mosquito bites. Trust me, they won't bite your Kurdish cousins. They will know you're a guest, and you taste different. So YOU are the target!

Sun cream: It is going to be summer, and most of the time you will be out so do pack a sun cream that you are used to using.

Medication: It is best if you see a doctor before you come, and get him to prescribe some medication in case you get an unstable tummy in the first week. You don't want to waste an entire afternoon in a doctor's clinic when you’re here

Clothing: Most of the clothes you should be packing would ideally be not beyond the knee length and
as long as there is some sleeve it will be fine. Short sleeves are normal and skirts, until the knee  length is also okay.

You are free the way you want to dress. But I am just telling you what people in general wear so you have an idea of what's suitable. On a general level people do dress up, sometimes they do go overboard even if they are only going to the mall.

Sandals: If you have a favourite flip flops then do bring them along. If you visit Bekhal or any other water fall such as Gali Ali Beg then you need to wear sandals that won't be torn in the water.

The Gifts

Once upon a time (like one year back) when someone was coming back from abroad they'd ask "what should we bring back" most people would ask for a digital camera, branded make up, designer perfumes, shoes etc.. the rare that couldn't be found here. But today, my dear reader, it's different. You can easily buy the original Loreal foundation, the Addidas Shoes, and even top designer watches.

 They are not necessarily affordable prices, but they are available. So don't believe it when you hear that they can't find any of these things here.

Don't forget, Mango is already open and Carrefour is opening next month! As for the technology, well… we have the original Apple store as well. So there is no need to worry yourself about iPad, iPod, iPhone or for that matter anything else that starts with an "I" that may be released by the time this blog is published. 

 Suggestion: If I had to suggest gifts, I would say souvenirs from the county that you are visiting from. However, many people here may find it insulting that after ten years of living abroad you return with a key ring of the Eifel Tower or a toy Kangaroo. Think carefully. And another suggestion, either bring something for everyone, or nothing at all. When you're invited to people's houses [which by the way you must be prepared for] you can just take some sweets.  

Mango in Erbil Majidi Mall, picture from  Here

Flying to Kurdistan

You will know you're going to Kurdistan from the terminal at the airport.  Actually even before that. You will know in the weigh-in section where the luggage is being weighed. As soon as you see bags open and goods transferred from one bag to another (and maybe people asking you if you have any room in your luggage) then know that you are on your way to Kurdistan.

Other things to keep in my mind during your fly to Kurdistan: Everyone speaks in the plane—politics of course, clap as soon as you land, and then you begin to hear the golden words: BAXERBET, SAR CHAW!!!! At that second you should be thinking HOME, HOME SWEET HOME!!! Aaaaah!!!

Erbil International Airport, EIA, Picture by Shakawan, Flicker

The Must See:

I am sure your relatives and friends will take you around to all the places that you need to see, but here is a brief list in random order.

In the city you should visit:

1.       The Citadel, once inside there is a shop and a textile museum that is a MUST SEE!

Textile Museum- Pic by, One-Thirteen, Flicker

2.       The Qaysari Bazaar

3.       The malls: Family Mall, Majidi Mall, Sofy mall and maybe even Rhein mall


Ice Ring in Family Mall- Pic by Shakawan, Flicker

4.       The theme park: Family Fun

5.       Ica Hall for ice skating

6.       Aqua Park – water slides and bowling

7.       Mini Gulf

8.       Jalil Al-Khayat mosque and St. Jousef Church are both a must see

Parks: You really shouldn't return unless you've visited all of these three parks as you will learn a lot about Kurdish people:

9.   Shanadar Park, here you can try the teleferique and visit the Shanadar cave where there is a display of Kurdish art. Also here you can buy postcards on Kurdistan



Minaret- Erbil, photo by Mohamad Sinjari, Flicker

10.   Martyr Sami Abdul Rahman Park:  The water features are beautiful, so is the music, kids' play ground and the new restaurant is SUPERB.

11.   Minaret Park: This is a must see, in particular in the evenings, because of its historic significance (Al-Mudhafaria Minaret). The water fountain with the lights makes a great backdrop for pictures

Tourist & Historic sites:

12.   Shaqlawa should be first on the list, the weather is beautiful even in summer, and the walk down the main street is refreshing (try the ice cream there and the nana kaysi too!! mmmm)

Shaqlawa, Picture by Shakwan, Flicker

13.   Bekhal,  the most beautiful waterfall

14.   Gali Ali Beg waterfall, here there are ducks and little boats that you can take under the waterfall, very close to Bekhal so will definitely need to visit

Gali Ali Beg, pic by One-Thirteen, Flicker

15.   The Cultural Museum

16.   Qalinj Agha Hill

17.   The Deween and Khanzad castles

18.   The Beston and Dian caves

19.   Harir Mountain Sculpture- goes back to 1^st century BC

20.   Rabban Biya Convent (Shekh Wesu Rahman)

21.   Jundiyan Resort

22.   Heran and Nazanin

This, by the way is a short list (and only in Erbil) I have missed many other places.

Bekhal, Picture by- Mohamad Gafori

The Must Try:

Masti Hawler

The Etiquette:

Forget about schedules and working by the clock. As much as we like to function with the time, the chances are you can't plan a lot here because everything happens all of the sudden.

When you sit around the dinner, the chances are you will be asked to try this, try that and eat more of that. You will hear "you didn't eat anything" even though you have had two plates of rice already! And "your hands can't reach the dish over there" even though you reached out three times.

Another tip, if you are on a diet: Forget it!! Diets don't work here, especially if you have come for a visit. You can always restart your Jenny Craig diet as soon as you land to the country you're coming from. You won't be able to resist the Dolma, nana tiri, brnj w shla or even the paqlawa. If you keep your diet you will regret it for years ahead. And plus, people will think you're being so awropi so be Kurdish instead and Bxo (Eat!).

Dolma anyone? Picture by Shakawan, Flicker

 When you visit expect to see many people. Even your aunt's neighbour might invite you for dinner

And now… the most important part! The afternoon nap, after lunch everyone goes to sleep in summer. Yes, at 1:30 people are sleeping till about 4 or 5 p.m. when life begins again. I still can't get used to this. But you, my dear reader, should make the most of this golden time of Silence. Email friends, write a diary, or load your pictures.  

I must admit it can be boring to see people sleep during the day for a good three hours, especially if you aren't used to it. Also, since people sleep during the day, at night they remain awake till well past midnight—but you can be a chicken like me and go to sleep at 10 p.m. and listen to all the stories that happened last night over breakfast the next day [sigh, and realize what you missed out on!].

What's Normal?*

Let me prepare you for some situations you may encounter and find weird. But these are totally normal here!

It is NORMAL to hear the horns of the cars as soon as the traffic light turns green.

It is NORMAL to wash the veranda with a hose.

It is NORMAL to be kissed 5 or 6 times by an elderly lady-- and for the kisses to be a little bit sloppy.

It is NORMAL for a man to have hundreds of dollars on a table in front of him in a busy Bazaar, for money exchange

Money Exchange in Erbil, Pic by American Crew, Flicker

It is NORMAL for politics to be the topic in almost every gathering

It is NORMAL for a taxi driver to get into the intimate details of your life

It is NORMAL to buy blockbuster movies for less than $2 USD.

 It is NORMAL for a woman to wear gold as much as her weight all at the same time

Picture by Rohat, Flicker- Gold store in Erbil


Another Gold Shop, picture by One-Thirteen, Flicker

It is NORMAL for the falafl to be put into the sandwich by hands

It is NORMAL to say "no you go in first" (through the door) and hear "oh no no no, you must go first" because "Baxwa nabet"

Words in Kurdish:

Don't ever try translate a sentence word for word from English and say it in Kurdish [I say this from experience] it will be a mockery! But these are few words to keep in mind, just so you don't get confused:

Yak Waraqa: means one paper, but it also refers to $100 USD.

Yak Daftar: means one notebook, but it also refers to $10 000

Monica: might be the name of girl, but it refers to the white four wheel drive looking car (I'm certainly not the right person to speak of car models. But you must know the Monica is a car!)

So, if the slot of land across the road is worth se daftar it is not worth three notebooks, but $30 000!

Normal Situations:

Also, since you are coming in summer there is going to be so many wedding parties (it's right after graduation season don't forget!) if you're single don't be offended if the following happen, because it is also NORMAL:

Your mother (bless her) or older sister points at every girl in the wedding and say "what do you think of her" in the ideal situation you are supposed to say "yes, she is beautiful, let's ask for her hand!" but the chances are they will be disappointed as you laugh it off. If you're a girl: It's NORMAL to hear naxsha la tu or may your turn be next. That is, your turn to be the bride!  

Other things to keep in mind: Kar [donkey] is a bad word; Sher [lion] is a good word. Ango is Hawlery and Ewa is Slemani (same with Ku and Chon). People will really pay attention to the words that you use, but then you can be like me and use every word that comes to your mind from every Kurdish dialect and people can't guess where your origins are.

Finally, you're supposed to laugh at the end of every Xoshnaw joke. But let me tell you this, the Xoshnaws are the most amazing people in this land, you will just have to come and see for yourself!  

What to take back?

I urge you to take back gifts and souvenirs from Kurdistan to the country you are from.  You're colleagues at work will appreciate a gift from your vacation and you will also be doing something good to Kurdistan.

For example, if you work at some government office the US and you take back for your colleague a little Minara or Qalat statue for their desk, how great would that be?

Or how proud would it be if a young British student in the UK had a Kurdish Klash for her key ring?  

The Kurdish carpets near the citadel cost less than $7 USD each, they make great gifts. The Kurdish hand bags that could be hanged on the walls are also good gift choices. While you're there buy some tasbeeh as well.

Carpets near Erbil Citadel, Pic by Mark Jutton, Flicker

Don't forget an XL Kurdish Flag that is available on 'Jaday Tarbiya' which is located at the top of Erbil's Doctor's Road (Shar'e Atubba). While you are there the shops have badges with the Kurdish flag. There is also a little corner shop on the same road that is designed to look like the citadel. But you will find great Kurdish souvenirs.

In Naza Mall, on the second floor, there is a shop that has handbags with the Kurdish Flag on it. They are under $15 USD.

In the Qaysari Bazaar, you can get key rings of the Kurdish Klash

Pic by Tara Beeban, Flicker

Now, if I am traveling abroad there is something that I am going to take a LOT of. They include the following

•           The map of Kurdistan
•           There are new small books that include all the tourist and historic sites in Kurdistan with pictures in Kurdish, Arabic and even English. I recommend a little book called: Your Guide to Iraqi Kurdistan Region, prepared by Sardar M. Abdulrahman and Hoshyar M. Khoshnaw!
•           There are little statues of the Citadel and Minaret that reflect on Kurdistan that can be found in the shop in the citadel, in Naza Mall or in the shops on Tarbiya Road, also near the citadel
•           In many of the jewelry shops there are little Kurdistan necklaces—highly recommended!



The book I am refering to, by Abdulrahman and Xoshnaw

 If you happen to have a friend who is thinking of returning back home, or you have a sister who is wondering how it would be to be living back in Kurdistan then you can also decide to take back "My Nest in Kurdistan" also available in some of the book shops across the Region. This is not advertising, I am just suggesting.  ;-)

Last but certainly not least. You MUST get a set of Kurdish clothing for you and whoever else is very special in your second country. I suggest as soon as you land, make arrangements to visit Tayrawa or the Qaysari Bazaar near the Citadel. Have a look and select the colours and material that you want and it will take up to two weeks sometimes for it to be ready to pick up. I recommend the Beirut shop opposite the Qaysari Bazaar, they sew the most stunning Kurdish clothes in all types of styles. That way, when you drop by to the citadel again before you depart (to buy your souvenirs) then you can pick up your new set of Jli Kurdi.

I hope you have an enjoyable vacation, welcome! Baxerben! Sar sar w sar chaw! You may now take off your seat belts 

*The ideas in this section are not all my own, thanks to some Twitter friends who started the enjoyable hash tag of #youknowyouareaKurd