Life’s little beauties

When mummy and daddy are not there…. Life is not over for Erbil’s orphans



In life we do not always know what we want, sometimes we are too carried away looking for our own comforts and what makes us happy. We forget of what we have, and more importantly the people that surround us. Only when they leave our lives do we realize what they meant to us and learn that their place in our hearts will never fade. Once they leave the things around us mean nothing, the beauty of life disappears and we do everything to forget them, but they can never be forgotten.

We all have people in our life who we love and cherish. But recently experiences and incidents in my life made me look into this in a deeper way, in fact, much deeper.
With a group of friends we decided to take a trip to the orphanage in Erbil, I must say it added depth to the ocean of feelings I had inside me.

Of all the children, one in particular caught my attention, little Rozie*she was the first one I saw; actually I was outside when I saw her first. Rozie was on a sofa, she had the curtains in one hand pulled to the side and the other hand on her cheek as she looked outside the window from the three story house, her and her 10 to 15 friends live in, she is about three years old, and as soon as we walked in she ran to welcome us. Her large smile showing her milk teeth, her hair messy but cute and then there it was, shiny eyes that told me the world is okay.

This little girl’s eyes were full of hope, tenderness and warmth. She was not alone. All the children were beautiful in their own ways; they are talented, energetic and vibrant. They are full of life, yet somehow somewhere deep there ought to be a wound, and it is evident.

The children have all the toys they need, all the room they need and all the food they would want to eat. But they do not have the one thing that a child needs the most—the feeling of security, they do not have access to a mother’s chest to put their heads on at nap time. Nor can they fall on the ground laughing because Daddy is tickling them.

Children are the most precious gifts in this world; they are also the most innocent and harmless. If there is one thing that children do best it is making us smile in our most distressful days. They know nothing of the world and its sadness. They are not concerned that the Kurds are the largest stateless nation, that Israel and Palestine have been in war for so many years, the economic crisis has left countless number of people jobless, and the world is coming to a place where people kill others in the name of God.

Their world composes of two people—Mummy and Daddy. For the beautiful smile to appear on their face all they want is a toy to be amused with and a hug.
How sad is it to be separated from the person who carried you in their womb for nine months, how despondent would one feel not to be able to see the other half who contributed so that you can appear in this world?

What angers me the most is that the children in Erbil’s orphanage, most of whom, have parents who are living, but they have been abandoned. The common stories are ‘the parents got divorced’ or ‘the mother got married and neither parent wanted the kids’ or ‘she was not wanted in the first place’. These are excuses that reflect something in our society that is lacked- family planning.

Be married for six months and if people do not see a ‘baby bump’ then something is wrong (though I must admit this is changing to a great extent now, which is wonderful news!) some couples do not divorce because they have children, and priority is given to the kids first. I cannot agree with this alternative. Nor can I accept that children become victims to the lousy decision making skills of adults.
There is nothing that the what so called ‘orphans’ lack--Other than lots of hugs--Our day began with a few friends who had raised some money; we made our way to the shops 9AM sharp and bought some gifts (though we all know ‘things’ can never bring happiness—but sometimes it is necessary--) and yummy goodies. We were then off to the orphanage, I must say it is a beautiful, modern area. There are six houses for boys and girls. They are both divided into 0-6 years; 6 years to high school; and then high school age and above. Boys separate and girls separate. It was organized.
Above: the girls busy with the shopping first

We began with the primary school girls first, somewhere at school when we went, we did painting, drawing, making jewelry, putting together jigsaw puzzles (which they were so fast to learn!! Must take 300 pieces this time!!) counting, writing and eating!
Busy with the puzzles...

The babies next door were noisy, but if it were in our hands we would not leave the front door. It was the most touching experience as Lava, age 4, cried and cried when we left. “You say you will come back but you won’t” she told one of my friends.
And Rozie, well her voice is still in my ear: “let them go, but you stay…” her words are soft and precious, just like herself.


(According to one of the kids, I have long hair that requires brushing)

I am happy that we made a visit, because I know their life is not as bad as I had first thought or imagined (the other orphanage before was a misery in itself). At the same time, the visit affects every day of my life, every move and ever decision. I was inspired by every child there.

Rozie comes to my mind every night before I put my head on the pillow, I wonder if she is okay, I wonder if she is hungry or if someone hurt her today (the social workers maybe). I wish life brings her success and happiness, she has a long journey ahead, and I am sure she will be a strong young woman one day who will have influence on those around her. That I am sure of.

I put Rozie's picture on the blog a few times and kept deleting it... something inside me won't let me put her picture, as much as I like to. If you get the chance visit her... she will be happy to see you... I am sure!!

Ashna putting up an illustration on Ama's bed, they made it together.


Above: The kids busy with their new possessions....

Above: Ashna, a few of the girls and I-- an attempt to entertain little toddlers is harder than one can imagine.

For some it was the first time they had held a pencil in their hand...

The games room is on the second floor.

*Names of children changed for ethical reasons

Elissa lands in Erbil

And she lands on Kurdish soil....!!


Above: With Foreign Relations representative of KRG- Mr. Falah Mustafa

Above: Elissa in the VIP section of the Erbil International airport

Lebanese singer Elissa arrived in Erbil International airport about 5:30 to 6 PM today, for her conert tomorrow night. I did not go to the airport simply because they over exaggerate on the security and it takes a real fight to get these 'pop-stars' so say two words.


I was told* that she said the reason behind her visit was the stable security in the region, her love for the nation and her eagerness to see Kudistan.


For an average Kurdish girl, I am pleased that she is here and we are proving to the world that the Kurds are no different to any other nation in the world. Despite the costs of the tickets many reservations have been made, and so many others are willing to go but the $200 USD (for the peasants at the back) and $500 USD (for the kings at the front) still remains the reason why so many will not make it tomorrow night.

As for her new CD, there are two songs that I seem to be listening to non-stop around the clock, and I just can't wait to see who is next on the list to visit the region.




*Pics: thanks to S. Hamed and Q. Khidhir
*told by a reliable source who was there!

Valentine's Day in Kurdistan...

My amusement in Valentine’s Day no longer exists, (you can say I do not believe in it). But I should not be biased, so I thought I would write to you, my dear reader, about Valentine’s Day in Kurdistan.

Yes although it’s a rather new phenomenon here, it is celebrated!! Outside the three major cities it is rare to find people who know much of a special day dedicated to intimate companions, in the city it’s a different story (and Suly more than Erbil for sure!).



At university, it is become a tradition that every year a party for valentines is made, even if it falls on the holidays, it takes place on the last day of Uni. In the past two years I haven’t been able to make it to the valentine’s party (this time last year I celebrated in the icy cold winter days of Vienna and this year, I was just not in the mood for any sort of celebration). At the completion of the exams, the Uni cafeteria* was decorated by the Student Union in such a way that it was transformed entirely and the mood of Valentine appeared. I hear activities, song and dances carried on for a long time.

Basically, young people, whether they are at our University of any other college in the region, the day is gradually becoming a big phenomenon. Whilst it does not fit all aspects of the Kurdish culture, I still believe it is a positive change as it brings something worthy into the culture- one of love, appreciation and respect, better than hatred and abhorrence.



February 14th is actually becoming a day where young people look forward to it—friends exchange roses, sweets and friendly texts remaining them they are there for one another. At the same time, there are people who do not even know a day of such exists in the world.

I still believe Kurdistan, if it were to celebrate a day for lovers, then the day should be one that reflects one the varies well-known lovers in the Kurdish literature; like Mam u Zin, Shirin u Farhad and Wali Deewana and Sham. Just how did Saint Valentine reach the mountains of Kurdistan?!




*Cafeteria in the University of Kurdistan is not just a place for eating food and sitting around a table. We have ate, mourned, cried, laughed, played, talked, fought, argued, and danced in it. Let us say it has the ability to be transformed into almost anything.

*Please note all pictures were taken from S. El Kaisi—with much appreciation- all rights respected

My day in Erbil's Zaytun library

I have driven past the library many times but never took the opportunity to actually go inside and discover what was beyond the stunning modern building. Since I finished my exams, and as a stress relief I thought going to the library maybe the ultimate option.

Proudly I walked through the beautiful library but sadly not as many people as I wished were there. With an infrastrcture like this, I am optimistic for the future,
books and reading must become part of the culture, and gradually with a library like this it will. (I am planning to take my little orphan friends to borrow books from the children's section in the next couple of weeks) !!


An outside view of the library
The library is designed as a large modern style blue building. The atmosphere is quiet and graceful in the middle of nature; the study rooms and halls are surrounded by glass and overlook the serene view of Park Sami Abdul-Rahman.The mammoth two floor building consists of two study halls, seminar and conference rooms as well as computer and internet laboratories.


The American corner of the library


Mr. Zahir Abdulla, Director of the library


The film or stage performance hall is an extension to the library which can sit an audience of 350 people at any one time; it is specifically designed for on-stage live performances.

There are also additional sections that reflect on the Korean culture, one area is designed like a museum with the work of the Korean Zaytun military put on display during their time in the region. The American section has videos, movies and books from America to introduce the American culture to the Kurds. I borrowed Hillat Clinton's 'Living History' book and will start looking through it tonight. I must admit there are no resent publications, but it is better than nothing!


The Korean Zaytun section of the library


Books donated to the library recently,

Every seminar room and hall is named after a particular Kurdish personality. The dust has picked up in some of the rooms in the library, and for sure the books are waiting for readers. For now the Zaytun library is still in its primary steps in a journey to being the largest, most beneficial and used library in the Kurdistan region in the near future


The internet and lab room

* All pictures were taken by me for the purpose of this blog only and not for other uses. Please respect this right.

My hours at the Erbil Nursing home

Above: Poora Golizard, she has been at the nursing home for 7 years now.

So what do a group of 20 and 21 year-old Kurdish girls do in their spare time? If you guessed writing or going for a walk you would have probably been right, but no, not this time. Shopping? Again No. Gossiping? No. Not us! Bowling? No. Cooking? No. (You wish!) Spending time with friends? (YES!! But certainly not the type of friends that you have in mind)

Let me tell you, the most recent news is that the triplet friends(that is Bewar, Ashna and I) will begin the weekly visit to the nursing home in Erbil to voluntarily spend time with our new friends, most of whom are half a century older than we are. The experience is enjoyable, but the lessons that we learn just by siting with them and being involved in their conversation are beyond what words can describe. There is a big contrast to the orphanage that we had been so attached to before. But we like change!

This week was preliminary- it was tears and laughter. Sitting in the garden under the warm sunlight with a group of my old friends I learn Some of these ‘oldies’ are in love, others have met in the nursing home and are now married. Some hate one another, others flirt with each other.

Their conditions are better than what you may expect. Whilst their health and medical needs are met, the place they live in is as old as they are and the garden is very small. I noticed they lack activities and a daily program to keep them occupied.

Today there were 42 of them— almost all of them over the age of 60. I saw it all; hatched backs, wrinkles, and even the sloppy kisses that we all dread. Their lives can be turned into a comedy television series or a soap opera but their abilities should never be underestimated. I realized each one of the ‘Dada’, ‘Poora’ and 'Mama' (What Kurds usually call the elderly, the terms refer mainly to aunty and uncle) have their own stories, you cannot hold back the tears as they share their pains, their wounds, their sacrifices and exhaustion in life.

So who needs young friends when you can be friends with the old? I must admit though, since my first visit my view and thoughts about life have changed dramatically. Whether we like it or not, you and I will also be old one day and I just wish there will be someone who will come, sit with us under the warm sun, see our wrinkles and listen to our stories.

Some of my old friends can’t eat sugar, others are forbidden from salt and of course oil is a ‘no! no!’ for most them, but still, next week I will smuggle in some homemade sweets, I know they will like it!

* Fellow reader!! If you by any chance have ideas of activities (even games) that are easy, accessibly and do not need much materials for older people ((‘Older’ meaning 60+)) then please let me know. In the two hours a week I would like to do something exciting and different with them, other than sitting and listening to the endless stories. I have been looking for the heavy metal balls that aim to land close to a specific target (can't recall the name of the activity)… It would be very convenient and enjoyable for them. Unfortunately I haven’t had any luck so far. I want them to stretch some muscles and have some fun!


*There is going to be an article on the nursing home in this week’s issue of the Kurdish Globe.

Elissa in Kurdistan

I almost had a car crash today as a large billboard promoting the party of Lebanese singer. It was a surprise, but not unexpected!

After the first two concerts held by Lebanese singer Najwa Karam and the vast success it brought (and money of course!!) posters and advertisements are now on display in Erbil promoting the concert of another Lebanese singing icon- Elissa.
From living here, one thing that I have observed is that the culture of parties is emerging in a great way. The people, especially in the cities (and Sulaimaniya ahead of Erbil) are willing to go out and enjoy their time in parties and concerts more than ever before. The world of celebrities has become more and more appealing to the new generation in particular.

Usually such concerts are targeting a specific group in the society, but attract the attention of almost everyone, and until her arrival it will be the conversation topic of every men, women; young and old.


Above: The advert promoting Elissa's concert/ party in Kurdistan, Erbil

As a young Kurd, it makes me happy to know that even Arab singers are welcome to give concerts to Kurds and it just proves that we are just like any other nation in the world… It is even more delightful to know that these concerts are the first of its kind in Iraq. The well-off families from Baghdad and other areas in the country normally make arrangements to attend such events.

As for Elissa, with the concert set for five days after Valentine’s Day (19th of Feb), her romantic songs and slow voice will attract many young couples, and, with no doubt there will be a full concert hall.

With dinner provided, prices range from $200 to $500 per person, depending on how close they are to the stage. For a one night’s event it is a heavy price tag for most households, but many have already made their bookings.

* The rumor that is now emerging is that the ‘hot’ looking Haifa Wehbi will be next in the list to hold a party in Erbil. And let me see, the Kurdish guys are already saving up!! :D


PS. Keep an eye on a next blog entry as I visit the Erbil Nursing Home tomorrow. I know, one day Elissa and the next the nursing home… that’s how it is over here! We have a little of everything.

When young Kurds celebrate....

Dancing to say: 'Bye Bye Chemical Ali'


25th January, 2010 is another day in my diary that has pages and pages of writing, despite the fact that it is incredibly difficult to express the emotions. Simply, ‘Chemical Ali’ was given his death sentence for the crimes against the Kurdish people.

I hear so often people saying young Kurds are not attached as much to their roots and their Kurdish identity. This is not the reality. The atmosphere at Uni today was one filled with serenity and fulfillment. Exams are around the corner, deadlines are approaching and final papers must be handed it. Despite this, the students took the initiatives upon themselves to celebrate the ‘UKHian’ way.

Patriotic songs were put on the loud speaker all day in the cafeteria. And between classes hand in hand shoulders shimmered, feet danced and the noises of happiness were made (Kurdish readers: I am referring to Halhala—our guys know how to do it well!!)

Girls, boys, old and young danced. Everywhere I looked I saw people smiling, girls laughing, boys dressed to impress and pictures were taken (I know years down the road, these pictures will be shown to our children, as we remind them of history—and say “this was the day after Chemical Ali got his punishment”) .
Students who I had never noticed before were in Kurdish clothes or wearing a Kurdish symbols including flags, bracelets, and the ‘Jamadani’ which was around the neck of many girls.

Young people were celebrating a phenomenal event where, the punishment of the guilty hands behind the cleansing and genocide against Kurdish people took place. The event was symbolic, as from this day forward, Kurds know they cannot be hurt or by anyone because of their Kurdish identity.

What makes the event so close to my heart in particular is the fact that I visited Halabja various times and the images have remained in my mind. I walked on the roads that innocent children died on. Sitting by the cemetery, the emotions and thoughts that provoke out of one’s mind is sorrowful.

Despite the celebration, the wound is still deep. Despite the smiles, the tears are still there. Despite the songs, our woes are still loud.

Young people will remember the innocent blood of the young children, the old fathers and the mothers of every household. And it makes me smile and be confident for the future of Kurdistan when I see young people so attached and devoted to their nation.
I am proud to be living a day like today.


Above: A lasting picture that will hold deep memories for years to come.

Univeristy of Kurdistan- Hawler students, celebration for the execution of 'Chemical Ali'

The Kurdish Yapragh (Dolma)

Above: The guys in our department trying to get the first taste

If you are well acquainted to the Kurdish culture you would know that there is nothing that makes Kurds happier than a large pot of Yapragh (otherwise known as Dolma) or Bryani.

When exam season arrives, students become stressed and essays and assignments seem to be never ending what makes a group of Politics Students smile?! Food—not just any food, we are after all talking about Yapragh!!


I must admit even for less than an hour sitting on the grass around a bunch of newspapers and a large plate of mouthwatering Yapragh with discussion and jokes with colleagues is one of those times where memories are everlasting.
Large get togethers are a vital component that keeps the Kurdish culture vibrant and alive.

In large family outings or in celebrations such as Newroz usually the women begin the big grocery shopping the night before, and wake up early the next morning to prepare the dish and place it on the stove until they leave the house when it is wrapped in towls and cloth to keep it warm for the hungry tummies. The mixture is wrapped in vine leaves or other vegetables. most of the time and is made differently in each household. No matter how it is made Yapragh among Kurds is a respected dish nad must be tried if you ever visit the region.


Above: Kak Aso helps bring the heavy pot to the Uni garden

(pictures- Thanks to S. Ibrahim for the Yapragh made for our colleagues in a time when we were all worn out and stressed.)

Meet Haji Salaha Rash

Above: Salaha Rash and group of friends who dig graves for free in their spare time, just to help the local community.

I was at the Globe newspaper last week, and met with reporters and journalists who work for the same paper. One of them had a very interesting story that I wanted to share with those who read my blog.

Not long ago I wrote a piece about Mam Najat who looks after mentally insane people voluntarily, now meet our new friend Haji Salah (56 years-old) who in his spare time along with his group of friends dig graves to help families who have just lost their loves ones.

Haji Salah does not mind whether you are Muslim or Christian, he does not mind if its early morning or late at night, he is ready to leave his family at home and voluntarily help people in their darkest and most stressful hours... (I must emphasize this is all for FREE).

For eight years now, Haji Salah (or as locally know- Salaha Rash) and his team of male friends have been digging graves. They have all the basic equipment they need. One must not forget that some families are confronted with financial difficulties as the mourning ceremony for the passed away loved one may cost a large sum of money-- to have the grave dug for free helps them, even though in a small way.


Salaha Rash

There are many Kurds who do a lot of good for their community, but not much light is shed on them. I was introduced to a person last week who gives his spare time to a group of children on a busy street, during school hours he helps children cross the road. Simple things, that make great differences. All these depict one important picture about Kurdish people- they are ready to help at any cost.

Meanwhile, Haji Salaha Rash, wants eveyone to know his phone number, so they can call him when ever they need a grave to be dug for free...


* Please note: All pictures were taken by a reporter/ Journalist in Kurdish Globe Q. Khidir

2010 through the eyes of Kurdish girls...

Like young woman in all corners of the world, Kurdish girls too have dreams and ambitions for the upcoming year. A group of friends shared their thoughts and dreams with me:



Lara Aziz“For this New Year, I wish that I'll succeed at school because I want to be accepted in a Medicine school in France. This is my biggest wish for 2010, and I will do my best to make it come true. I want to prove that Kurdish Girls are smart and they are able to have a big career.”




Narin Bahat“I feel that 2010 is going to be wonderful; I will be able to discover many new things around me and make new communications. I expect more political, economical, educational and social developments in Kurdistan. I hope to see so many happy, optimistic and excited faces on the streets.”




Ashna Sharef “First of all I hope to witness an end for women’s inequality and pain in the entire Kurdish society. And for myself, I hope to graduate and become an active member in Kurdistan and help to develop this beautiful nation.”




Reveen Muhammed“I wish Happy New 2010 to all the people in Kurdistan, I hope that this year will bring joy, peace and prosperity to all Kurdish people and I want to see Kurdistan flourish more and more in 2010. My dream is to become a painter as I have a passion for art, I wish to continue this passion into the next year as well.”

A Brit in 'Jli Kurdi'

My new British friend makes Kurdish clothes


It was an entertaining experience, when Jessy, 14 from the UK came to spend the Christmas holiday in Kurdistan with her grandmother who happens to be working here. It is her first time in the region, and the first thing she wanted to do was buy ‘Jli Kurdi’. We bought the material, went to the tailors and the second day this is what it looked like on her.






So proud of our culture!!
I am so glad that foreigners enjoy the experience of staying in Kurdistan, and it makes me proud and happy to have young people from the developed world come and be our guest!